Perched prettily on a hill with narrow medieval streets and a traditional Catholic church, Seborga seems like a typical Italian village – but it’s far from it. This tiny enclave on the Italian Riviera, which covers just five square miles (13sq/km) of land and is home to around 300 residents, has hopes of becoming an independent micro-nation. In fact, Seborga has been claiming sovereignty from Italy for the last 60 years and even has its own flag, currency and monarchy. Here we reveal the amazing and eccentric story behind Seborga and how it became one of the most unique places in the world.
The story begins in 954 AD when the territory of Seborga was donated to the Benedictine monks of Lérins Abbey. The monks lived in the village until 1729, when they sold Seborga to the King of Sardinia, Victor Amadeus II. The agreement was signed in Paris in the presence of lawyer Franceso Lea, who represented the king; Father Benoît de Benoît, treasurer of the abbey; and Father Lambert Jordany, the dean. When the Kingdom of Sardinia became part of Italy in 1861, Seborga became part of Italy too.
Hundreds of years later, Seborga resident and florist, Giorgio Carbone, looked into the village's history across several centuries using documents from the Vatican archives. He discovered that there was no record of the sale as it hadn't been registered properly. The documents didn't state that the King of Sardinia would have sovereignty over Seborga, but rather that the territory would become the king's personal possession. Therefore, he argued, the village had never legitimately been part of the Italy at all.
After this discovery, which left Seborga legally stateless, Giorgio Carbone (pictured here) made it his personal mission to fight for the village's independence. During the 1960s, Carbone was elected as Giorgio I, Prince of Seborga, and so the Principality of Seborga was born.
As Seborga's first prince, Carbone certainly embraced life as a royal, establishing a palace, taking up the ancient coat of arms, creating licence plates for residents and composing the village's own national anthem. To mark his defiance, Carbone refused to pay taxes to Italy and would drive with Seborgan number plates on his car. He even gave the village its own Latin motto: “Sub umbra sedi”, which translates to “sit in the shade”.
Carbone didn't stop there, he established Seborga's own currency, known as the Luigino, which can be used in the principality's bars and restaurants but has no value outside the village. He also introduced the village's own flag, which can be seen decorating nearly every building; stamps (which can't actually be used for posting letters); created passports; and set up a cabinet.
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The revival of Seborga's sovereignty brought the previously little-known village international attention, adding tourism to its economy (which was previously based on flower and olive farming). Carbone also established an Olympic committee (not internationally recognised) and a national football team. He ruled Seborga until his death in 2009.
Pictured here is Seborga’s unofficial border crossing, which Carbone would often close to visitors in a display of the settlement's autonomy. A sentry box has been painted in the colours of Seborga's flag and it is occasionally manned by the village's self-proclaimed border guards.
German businesswoman Nina Döbler Menegatto was elected Princess of Seborga – affectionately known as 'Her Tremendousness' by the village residents – in 2019. She has previously served as foreign affairs liaison for Seborga on two occasions. She is also the ex-wife of Seborga's former head of state, Marcello Menegatto, who was elected as His Tremendousness Prince Marcello I after Carbone's death.
Following the abdication of Prince Marcello in 2019, Nina Menegatto applied to become the village's new head of state and won the election. The German property mogul has promoted the Principality of Seborga around the world, transforming it into a tourism hotspot and showcasing its historical and commercial importance.
With Seborga’s growing popularity, the village has had its share of corruption and scandal too, with several pretenders to the throne coming to light. The issue is so serious that the government has published a list of offences as a warning. The list details activity not officially endorsed by Seborga, such as websites claiming to sell merchandise and currency from the Government of the Principality of Seborga. It also states that any educational qualifications granted by institutions related to the Principality of Seborga are false, and that there are no banks, casinos, or hospitals in the principality.
Like its residents, Princess Nina supports the idea that Seborga was always independent, although Seborgans do pay taxes and vote in local and national Italian elections. Despite both the Italian Constitutional Court and the European Court of Human Rights in Strasbourg having previously rejected the village’s bid to become a sovereign state, Nina Menegatto is determined to try again, with the help of some lawyers.
Alongside Seborga's fascinating quest for independence, the village is linked to various legends too. It's thought that in the 12th century, Prince-Abbot Edward ordained the first nine templars here as the Knights of St Bernard. According to residents, legend has it that the Knights Templar also hid the Holy Grail in the village. Today, murals and symbols can be found dotted across Serboga's ancient walls, a reminder of its connection to the knights.
Although small, Seborga is packed with interesting sights, including the beautifully restored San Martino Square, home to the Church of St Martin, which was built in the 17th century by Genoese architect Arturo Fieschi and is dedicated to St Martin of Tours. Right next door is the Palace of Monks, so-called because it was purchased by the monks from a Seborgan in 1607. There are also a few small museums, including the Museum of Peasant Civilisation and Museum of Mint, as well as a permanent exhibition on musical instruments.
Currently Seborga has just a handful of restaurants and hotels, but in a bid to grow Seborga's tourism Princess Nina has announced plans to build a health and wellness hotel in the village. The new luxury resort will be constructed on a nearby outcrop, surrounded by the region's pristine countryside, with views across to nearby France and Monaco.
Although its future as an independent nation remains unclear, Seborga reigns supreme as one of Europe's most fascinating and unusual villages and continues to draw visitors from all over the world thanks to its beauty and quirky history.
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