Cornwall is filled to the brim with idyllic places offering stunning scenery at every turn. In a new book, Cornish Villages, author Sandra Srivastava draws on her extensive knowledge of the region, gained from years living in and exploring glorious West Country landscapes. Here's a tour of 10 of her favourite Cornish villages, along with fascinating insights into their histories.
The old fishing village of Cadgwith, on the Lizard peninsula, is one of the prettiest villages in Cornwall and has been frequented by generations of artists. Despite being a popular tourist destination it remains unspoiled, with winding, narrow streets, a flower-filled valley and plenty of charming cottages. The dinky blue-and-white St Mary's Church, a metal structure which dates back to 1895, is a great photo spot and holds several atmospheric services each year.
A quiet village with a stunning location on the wooded southern shore of the Helford River estuary, Helford is another highly underrated spot. A footpath affords far-reaching views of the wide river and white-sailed boats – a breathtaking sight in sunny weather. The path continues to Frenchman’s Creek, a picturesque little stream immortalised in novels by Daphne du Maurier and Sir Arthur Quiller-Couch, before returning through fields to Helford. Legend has it that the Helford River and its many wooded creeks are frequented by Morgawr, a sea serpent. In case you don't see Morgawr, the area is also populated by a wide variety of birds, including herons, egrets and cormorants.
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During the Second World War, Mylor was a base for French resistance fighters and American troops – it's now a very popular leisure sailing centre. The church of St Mylor (or Melorus) was established in the early 5th century by St Mylor, who is believed to have been a missionary from Brittany. The current church dates back to the 12th century, and although it's been heavily restored over the years, some of its Norman features remain. Plus, in the churchyard stands the tallest former wayside cross in Cornwall, which is believed to be Celtic.
Veryan is best known for its whitewashed round houses. The five original cottages were built in the early 19th century, one pair at each entrance to the village and a single house in the centre. Legend has it that their circular shape meant that there would be no north side from which the devil could enter them or the village, and no corners for him to hide behind. For extra protection, each also has a cross atop its roof.
A picturesque fishing village set in a steep-sided inlet, Portloe's rows of dainty cottages are set above a craggy cove. It's easy to imagine what life would have been like here in times gone by, possibly as far back as the medieval era. Smuggling was rife until the 19th century and a landlord of notorious inn the Lugger Hotel, ‘Black Dunstan’, was hanged for the crime in 1890. Meanwhile, fishermen and miners supplemented their income by smuggling tobacco, spirits, clothes and fabrics from France. The women walked around the surrounding area with contraband spirits hidden under their skirts, selling them to those few who could afford them.
The tranquil coastal haven of Gorran Haven is home to two adjacent sandy beaches, which become joined at low tide. In this quaint fishing village you'll find a small harbour dotted with boats, while at the head of the beach is a high-walled stone building with arched doorways. This limekiln building was probably constructed in 1812 and was used for lime burning until about 1910. The roof is now a vantage point from which one can enjoy far-reaching views over the village, beach, harbour, countryside and open sea.
Mevagissey is one of Cornwall’s largest and most attractive fishing villages. While tourism is now the dominant industry here, evidence of its angling past can still be seen: streets rising steeply above the harbour contain old cottages designed for the processing of pilchards and the mending and drying of nets. These alleyways once provided cover for fishermen fleeing from press gangs who would conscript them into the navy, as well as smugglers hiding from the revenue men.
The picturesque fishing and boat-building village of Polruan is located near the mouth of the Fowey estuary, opposite the town of Fowey. Old cottages line the steep streets overlooking the harbour, and from here there are spectacular views across the estuary. You can also catch a foot ferry to this larger town, while the Bodinnick vehicle ferry is just upstream. A ferry has peddled this route since the 14th century, allowing travellers to continue their journeys into the wilderness of Cornwall.
Polperro has been a fishing village since the 13th century, and the surrounding area has been farmed for thousands of years. Featuring on postcards all over Cornwall, this is everyone’s favourite Cornish village, with a maze of narrow streets around the harbour and along the clifftops. Thankfully, it's large enough to absorb the hordes of visitors who descend upon it at the height of the holiday season. In the winter fog it's rather eerie – an entirely different place.
Tintagel is best known for its supposed connection with King Arthur. Historians speculate that in the 6th century, Arthur was probably a Celtic warrior leader, but whether he was a king is a different matter. Whether or not the stories about Arthur are true, it's hard not to be inspired by the views as you stand on Tintagel Island and gaze at the 13th-century castle ruins, across the rugged headlands and out to sea, admiring what is surely one of the most beautiful and romantic parts of Cornwall.
All images were taken with permission from the book Cornish Villages by Sandra Srivastava, which is published by The Book Guild and is out 28 March 2023. It can be pre-ordered here or purchased at all good bookshops.