Referred to by locals as St Kitts’ younger, prettier sister, Nevis is a Caribbean island that’s often overlooked by tourists in favour of its larger, noisier neighbours. However, though it may be small (it has an area of 36 square miles/93sq km and just one main road), it certainly punches well above its weight when it comes to beauty spots, historic sites and local legends. Here, you’re encouraged to ‘rush slowly’; to set your watch to island time and savour each moment of your holiday, no matter what you choose to do with it – and there are plenty of options beside sipping sundowners and soaking up the rays. Here are our top recommendations of things to see and do for a truly memorable trip.
Rum punch is ubiquitous in Nevis – whether it’s doled out in a plastic cup at a beach bar, served up from a jerry can on a water taxi, or presented to perfection at a high-end restaurant. But although each cocktail follows the same basic format (one part sour, two parts sweet, three parts strong and four parts weak), each recipe is different, so you’ll have to try a few to discover your favourite. Some are fruity, fizzy and packed with grapefruit-flavoured soft drink Ting; others are blow-your-head-off strong, with more rum and less punch; and some are sophisticated, with notes of tamarind and fresh nutmeg added to the mix.
Wherever you choose to dine in Nevis, you’re sure to find menus teeming with tempting fish and seafood dishes made with fresher-than-fresh, locally caught produce. There’s mahi-mahi, a lean white fish that’s simply delicious grilled; grouper, a subtly sweet fish that pairs perfectly with coconutty sauces; and snapper, a mild, juicy local favourite that’s so versatile it can be prepared any which way. Seafood-wise, don’t pass up an opportunity to try some jumbo shrimp (which really are huge), a bowl of conch chowder (a tasty, creamy sea snail soup) and a lobster roll (for the island’s finest, head to the restaurant at the Golden Rock Inn).
Backed by swaying coconut palms, Pinney’s Beach is one of Nevis’ most beautiful (and least crowded) stretches of soft, white sand – and whether you’re a total beginner or a seasoned sea-scourer, you’ll love exploring its dazzling blue waters with a pair of flippers and a snorkel. Beneath the surface, you could catch a glimpse of a spectrum of tropical fish darting over the rocks and weaving through the coral, from colourful tang, wrasse, parrotfish and damselfish to ethereal stingrays and glistening barracudas. If you’re lucky, you might even spot a turtle or two skipping through the shallows!
On the northwestern tip of Pinney’s Beach, you’ll find one of the island’s most legendary watering holes: Sunshine’s Beach Bar & Grill. This buzzy, music-filled shack is famous for its Killer Bee cocktail, an apricot-coloured rum punch whose recipe is a closely guarded secret (but may or may not involve a trickle of moonshine). The local advice? Never drink more than two Killer Bees in a row, or you could end up a little worse for wear. On a good day, you might even bump into the always-dapper Sunshine himself; he can often be found sitting at the bar with his friends.
Looming up from the centre of the island, it’s impossible to ignore the cloud-shrouded, jungle-clad Mt Nevis – a 3,182-foot (970m) dormant volcano that you can scale with the help of a guide. The hike starts off slow, with a gradual incline and leaf-scattered terrain, but don’t be deceived; sooner rather than later, the going gets tough. The at-times devilishly difficult, near-vertical ascent is filled with rocks and roots to scramble over, with muddy ropes on hand at the trickiest moments to assist with the climb. Persevere through it, though, and you’ll be rewarded with truly remarkable views over the island – and a sense of achievement that can’t be beat.
If you’re passing through Charlestown, be sure to stop at the Museum of Nevis History – housed in a quaint, Georgian-style building – to brush up on your local knowledge. Here, you can learn about the island’s original Amerindian inhabitants, the Arawak and the Carib, and find out more about the kingdoms that existed in Africa before slavery. The exhibition documents key milestones in Nevis’ history, from the slave trade to emancipation and independence, as well as shining a light on the African influences still present in the island’s language, food and music today.
Right next door to the Museum of Nevis History, you’ll find the Alexander Hamilton Museum – itself located just a stone’s throw away from the place where Hamilton was born. The museum is small, all in one room, and adorned with easily digestible posters that document the life of one of the United States’ key founding fathers, from his birth to his involvement in the American Revolution. If you’re a fan of the hit musical, this is a must-visit, as you can get your hands on some great Hamilton merchandise in the gift shop.
Built in the old plantation style and filled with shabby chic-style day beds, rugs and chandeliers, Bananas is a characterful restaurant set in lush tropical gardens at the top of the ruined Hamilton Estate. With fabulous views down to the sea, it’s an extremely photogenic place to have lunch or dinner – and it has an extensive selection of rums and cocktails to whet your appetite for its menu of Caribbean treats. The goat water (a thick, flavour-packed stew popular in Nevis and the surrounding islands) comes particularly highly recommended.
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For more history, set a course for the free-to-visit New River Estate, the site of an 18th-century sugar plantation and mill where nearly 130 enslaved Africans once worked and lived. You’ll receive an insight into how the sugar mill operated, powered first by cattle, and later by a steam engine called Minnie, and see the kettles where the sugar was boiled and crystallised. Though the great house that stood here has fallen into ruin since the mill ceased operation in 1958, there are some beautiful sea views to take in from the top of the steps.
Caribbean islands are famed for their eclectic array of local carnivals celebrated throughout the year, and Nevis’ iteration is Culturama: an annual celebration of Nevisian heritage. Taking place in late July or early August each year, the public holiday sees schools and businesses close, allowing everyone to get caught up in the fun. A flurry of music, parties, food fairs, dancing, poetry and pageants, one thing is guaranteed: the streets will be packed with revellers, as well as thousands of spectators from all around the world.
With a mesmerising soundtrack of chirping birds, whistling tree frogs and chattering monkeys, The Rocks restaurant at the Golden Rock Inn is a wonderfully atmospheric place to tuck into an alfresco dinner under the stars. Surrounded by jungle and carefully curated gardens, you’ll dine on a menu filled with sumptuous takes on local fish and seafood, as well as lamb and beef options and a crowd-favourite Moroccan chicken dish. If you have room to spare, round off your meal with one of the restaurant’s homemade cakes, ice creams or sorbets – they’re magnificent.
If you’re lucky enough to be staying at the five-star Four Seasons in Nevis’ northwestern corner, there’s no better way to start the day than by hitting the sports facilities for a game of pickleball: an addictive mash-up of ping-pong, tennis and badminton played with paddles and a light plastic ball. You can either play one-on-one or in pairs, and the aim of the game is to hit the ball over the net and prevent your opponent from returning your shot. The scoring system is a little complicated, so you might want to book a private lesson with one of the resort’s pros to get the hang of it.
Wherever you stay during your time in Nevis, one thing’s for sure: at some point, you’re bound to encounter a few furry friends of the simian variety. Though they’re considered a pest by the locals (they have a habit of stealing fruit and ruining crops), the island’s vervet monkeys are undoubtedly cute and can usually be found in areas where greenery is abundant. If you’re after a close-up photo opportunity, offer a banana to your chosen monkey; apparently, it’s a treat the cheeky scamps find hard to resist!
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Touring Cades Bay Fruit Orchard is a little bit like stepping inside Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory; everywhere you look, you’ll find something impossibly sweet and delicious to try. As you meander through the trees, farmer Dwight will point out the best fruits to eat, from unheard-of delights like creamy soursops and custard-like sugar apples to favourites like dragon fruits, avocados and mangoes – of which the orchard grows five delicious varieties. Once you’ve completed a lap of the farm and washed the juice from your fingers, visit the shop and buy a mango smoothie to sip on somewhere shady.
Strung with fairy lights and dotted with outdoor tables, this colourful little roadside restaurant in Cox Village gets rave reviews from customers – and with plates piled high with authentic, tasty Caribbean food, it’s easy to see why. Karen, the owner and chef of this off-the-beaten-path gem is always gracious, welcoming and quick to offer guests her refreshing take on the classic rum punch, which comes sprinkled with nutmeg. Come hungry, because menu highlights like the coconut shrimp and the local fish with Creole sauce come with an eye-popping array of rice, noodles, vegetables and salad.
Nevis sure looks good from the water. Head down to Oualie Pier in the late afternoon and hop on the Paradise Sun for a two-hour boat trip along the island’s Caribbean coast, taking in long, sandy beaches, exclusive waterfront properties and majestic views of the imposing Mt Nevis on the way. The best part? As the sun sinks into the sea, your crew will tell you interesting facts about the places you pass. Not only that, but you’ll also have your choice of music pumping out from the speakers, as well as an endless supply of your favourite beverage – rum punch included.
You’ll find Nevis’ Botanical Gardens tucked away on the Montpelier Estate, just down the road from the historic spot where Horatio Nelson married Fanny Nisbet in 1797. Strewn with a selection of fascinating Asian and African statues collected by the accommodating owner Christi and her late husband Nik, the gardens are filled with a sublime selection of tropical plants, from towering palms to vines and herbs. There’s even a Kew Gardens-style conservatory, complete with its own waterfall to explore. Keep an eye out for Nevis’ national flower, the Flamboyant, while you’re here.
Not too far from Oualie Beach, Luna is a magical dinner spot, with a romantic garden courtyard setting that’s intimate, elegant and illuminated by flickering candles. The menu here takes local Caribbean produce, herbs and spices and gives them an African, Middle Eastern, French or Italian spin; think lobster ravioli, wild mushroom tartlette and seafood au gratin. Can’t decide what to go for? Try a few dishes from the tempting tapas menu. The restaurant’s chilled-out furnishings are inspired by Ibizan interiors, so dining Spanish-style will seem almost second nature.
After long, energetic days spent exploring the island’s beaches and jungle trails, there’s nothing like a traditional Nevisian massage at the Four Seasons spa to ease your weary muscles. The treatment starts with a warm, lemongrass-scented foot bath, accompanied by an aromatic scrub composed of local oils, herbs and spices. Then, it’s down to business: a full body massage, consisting of long, fluid strokes that mimic the ebb and flow of the tide. An hour – and an additional back scrub – later, you’ll be relaxed, revitalised, and more than ready for a dip in the spa’s cooling plunge pool (pictured).
Nevis is home to a whopping 44 varieties of mango, so it makes sense that every summer, the island hosts its very own Mango Festival: a celebration of its most famous and beloved fruit. Usually held at the end of June or start of July, the party lasts from Friday right through to Sunday, and involves everything from mango massages, treasure hunts, food tastings and bar crawls to cookery demonstrations and mixology competitions – all at some of Nevis’ most beautiful locations.
Formerly Fothergill’s Estate – a sugar cane plantation and cotton ginning station – the Nevisian Heritage Village is now an open-air museum designed to teach visitors about Nevisian social history, from Carib times to the present day. Exhibits include replica slave houses, a rum shop and a blacksmith’s shop, all of which come complete with period furnishings and offer an insight into the hardship that enslaved Africans had to endure during colonial times. When you’ve finished wandering the buildings, there’s a fabulous on-site café where you can grab a bite to eat.
Rise early and make your way to the pier at the Four Seasons for a meditation session like no other: a sound bath. During this hour-long experience, you’ll find yourself at one with the island’s lapping waves and sighing winds as you recline on a mat, place a weighted mask over your eyes and tune into the sounds and vibrations around you. As gongs, singing bowls and other sound-producing instruments ring and tinkle in the darkness, the treatment will help you escape the stresses of modern day life and bring happy, energised emotions to the fore.
Book a stay at Nevis’ extensive, but pleasingly low-rise Four Seasons Resort (there’s an unwritten rule that no building on the island should stand taller than a coconut tree), and you’ll get front row seats for stunning sunsets over Pinney’s Beach and the Caribbean Sea. After touching down at the airport in St Kitts, feel free to leave yourself in the capable hands of staff; you’ll get an included ferry transfer direct to the hotel’s own pier, where you’ll be greeted and walked to your accommodation. With three exquisite restaurants and two bars on site, not to mention ample sports facilities and a fantastic spa, there’s plenty to keep you entertained during your stay. Rooms start from £695 per night ($895).
Set in soul-stirringly beautiful gardens almost as dense as the jungle on the slopes of Mt Nevis, the Golden Rock Inn is a tropical hideaway that promises to engage all your senses. Its serene cottages are scattered between lush green plants and mazy pathways, its excellent restaurant draws in crowds from around the island, and its freshwater swimming pool is the perfect place to cool off if the heat and humidity get the better of you. After a day of adventuring, don’t miss the opportunity to try a refreshing homemade ice lolly from the old-timey on-site popsicle cart. Rooms start from £233 per night ($300).
British Airways offers twice-weekly flights from London Gatwick to Robert L. Bradshaw International Airport in St. Kitts, where guests are transported by a short water taxi ride to Nevis.
Our writer stayed at the Four Seasons Resort and Golden Rock Inn. For more information on Nevis visit the Nevis Tourism Authority website.
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