The Danube, Europe’s second-longest river, passes through 10 countries from the Black Forest to the Black Sea: Germany, Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, Croatia, Serbia, Bulgaria, Romania, Moldova and Ukraine. Its historic banks, still peppered with fortresses and castles today, have witnessed the economic and political evolution of central and southeastern Europe through the ages, and inspired centuries of artists and adventurers. With fairy-tale scenes such as this pelican colony, pictured along the Sulina Channel of the Danube delta in 2003, it’s hard to believe that the great river’s recent reality is closer to a horror story.