One of Canada’s three prairie provinces, Alberta is so vast that it would take around 15 hours to drive non-stop from its remote north to its border with Montana. But it’s the wild landscapes and Western culture of the snowy, sunny south that stunned our senior features writer Hannah Foster-Roe on a recent adventure. Thanks to having world-class resorts such as Banff Sunshine and Mount Norquay on their doorstep, most Albertans can ski as easily as they can walk. But if that’s not your idea of fun, fear not – there’s so much more to see and do here, as non-skier Hannah found out.
Click through the gallery to discover how to experience southern Alberta, beyond the slopes...
Alberta has six UNESCO properties – that’s more than any other Canadian province. Most of these can be found in the south, including the Canadian Rocky Mountain Parks, which comprises Jasper and Banff National Parks (as well as parks in neighbouring British Columbia). The otherworldly badlands of Dinosaur Provincial Park are home to some of the world’s densest dinosaur fossil fields in the world, while Writing-on-Stone/Áísínai´pi (pictured) protects one of the largest concentrations of rock art in North America. At Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump, you’ll learn how the Blackfoot tribes hunted buffalo for survival and spiritual purposes.
Every July, the city of Calgary rumbles with the thunder of hooves as the world’s largest outdoor rodeo gets off to a raucous start. For just over a week each summer, Calgarians and visitors alike don their white Western hats and cowboy boots, and tuck into communal pancake breakfasts cooked in the streets as part of a tradition that dates back more than 100 years. If you really want to look the part when visiting Calgary during Stampede, head to Smithbilt Hats for your headgear – they made the city’s first, now-emblematic white hat in the mid-1940s.
Poutine, Canada’s national dish, is typically a combination of fries and soft, salty cheese curds slathered in rich gravy. But across Calgary, restaurants are tearing up the rule book and breathing new life into this cultural classic. Over in the University District, brunch hotspot OEB’s breakfast poutines come fully loaded with everything from confit duck and beef short rib to lobster scramble and tuna crudo, while Downtown’s CHARCUT (co-founded by Top Chef Canada finalist Connie DeSousa) spikes its poutine with the earthy perfume of truffle.
Having gone from humble beginnings to a household name, Milk Jar now offers candle and diffuser-making workshops from the most colourful (and gorgeously-scented) warehouse in Calgary. You’ll be guided through the fun and relaxing process of building two custom fragrances, layering oils to evoke immersive memories and stories. Made from coconut soy wax and free of nasty chemicals, all Milk Jar candles have a wooden wick that crackles like a mini fireplace when lit. Founder Hollie Singer also provides employment opportunities to people with disabilities and donates $1 from every sale to inclusive initiatives, so you’ll be doing and smelling good.
Completed in 1968 to mark the centenary of Canada’s confederation, this space-age concrete and steel skyscraper may have since been surpassed by other Downtown high-rises, but the Calgary Tower retains its title as the best place to see the city from above. With a 360-degree revolving restaurant and a glass panel in the floor of the observation deck, you’ll need a head for heights to brave this 626-feet (191m) behemoth. But the views across the city out to the prairies and Rocky Mountains are worth it, especially at sunset.
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Founded by cookbook author and retired nurse Karen Anderson in a bid to “improve the health of Alberta’s food and people”, Alberta Food Tours offers a scattering of delicious and insightful experiences across the province. We loved the guided Sunday brunch tour at Calgary Farmers’ Market West, which greets eager epicures with a breakfast sandwich, fruit, juice and coffee. From there, explore the seven signature products of Alberta and meet some of the artisans celebrating them. Come hungry, as you’ll pause at various stalls for several tastings, featuring freshly baked cookies, mead-based cocktails, bison jerky and more.
This vibey, up-and-coming neighbourhood sits just west of the University of Calgary campus, but it doesn't solely cater to the student population. Served by a bunch of cool shops and restaurants, as well as 40 acres of green space, it makes a great base from which to explore the edgier part of town. At the heart of it all is Alt Hotel Calgary University District (pictured), where the rooms are thoughtfully and sleekly designed, with some even boasting Rocky Mountain views. A new branch of famed roast house CHARCUT just opened downstairs too, so finding a dinner spot couldn’t be easier.
Calgary is the sunniest major city in Canada, basking in 333 days of the good stuff a year. But on the rare occasions that the sun isn’t playing ball – or if it’s just too darn chilly to be outside, the Plus 15 network is there to ensure you can still get your steps in. Spanning 10 miles (16km) across 86 bridges and overpasses, this covered, climate-controlled walkway is so-named because it hangs around 15 feet (4.5m) above the streets of Downtown Calgary. It’s one of North America’s most extensive pedestrian skywalks and is a testament to this forward-thinking city.
Located just less than an hour from Calgary, Yamnuska Wolfdog Sanctuary provides permanent refuge to dog-wolf hybrids that have been neglected, abandoned or displaced. While there is no law against keeping wolfdogs as pets in Alberta, exploitative backyard breeding practices and owners being unprepared for the challenges of taking a wolfdog into their homes mean that adoptions often don’t work out. Yamnuska aims to dispel myths and misconceptions about these beautiful, sensitive creatures through educational and interactive tours.
Meaning ‘clear water’, Eau Claire is the most awarded craft distillery in Canada, nestled in the once-lawless frontier town of Turner Valley. Its history is inextricably linked to Alberta’s Prohibition past; the sale of alcohol was banned in the province during the First World War, leading to a rise in speakeasies, illicit stills hidden on ranches, and the trade of illegal spirits. Eau Claire was founded with honouring this heritage in mind, creating whisky with water straight from the Rockies and the world’s finest barley. Visit its Turner Valley home or find a bottle at Calgary Farmers’ Market’s South and West locations.
Founded by Indigenous guide Heather Black, Buffalo Stone Woman’s gentle hikes traverse a range of ancient trails that lace through southern Alberta’s Rocky Mountains. Before setting out on your chosen tour, Heather leads a smudge ceremony, where blades of sacred plants like pine, sweetgrass and sage are burned in a ritual to thank the land and her ancestors. Much more than your standard hikes, these "Indige-scapes" are powerful experiences that promote reconnecting with nature, as well as showing how Native Canadian teachings and traditions from the past can encourage slower, more mindful ways of living now.
Surrounded by awesome granite peaks, Canmore is the gateway to the Rocky Mountains. The landscapes of this valley town unavoidably shape the retail scene here, where outdoor enthusiasts can get kitted out with the best gear and travellers can bag unique keepsakes, from homeware to chocolates. We picked up a tube of peach lip balm (that alpine air is a boon for the lungs and mind – just not for the skin!) and a selection of soaps at Rocky Mountain Soap Co., whose products are 100% natural and cruelty-free.
Established by Cree visual artist Jason Carter (pictured) and creative director Bridget Ryan, who are partners in life as well as business, the Carter-Ryan Gallery on Canmore’s 8 Street is a vibrant yet contemplative space. It’s both a performance venue and an art gallery, showcasing Jason’s mix of playful paintings and soapstone sculptures inspired by Alberta’s natural beauty and themes of peace, tolerance and togetherness. International visitors to southern Alberta arriving via Calgary or Edmonton will be welcomed by Jason’s artwork as they pass through the airports.
Irish expat Laura Dowling started the Canadian Rockies Experience with her husband to fill a gap in the market for a luxurious tour-guiding company in the region – and she’s certainly succeeded. From summer lake tours to winter evening ice walks, they offer something for everyone all year round. We tried the snowshoeing introductory tour, which starts with complementary pastries, hot drinks and a scenic drive from your accommodation in a plush SUV. After a breathtaking couple of hours in snowy Kananaskis Country, followed by afternoon tea at a mountain lodge, you'll part ways with your guide feeling like old friends.
Passionate about getting more people on bikes, Clare McCann is the head coach at Bikescape, which runs two-wheeled, small-group tours throughout the Bow Valley and Banff National Park – come sun or snow. Along with her team, they are the first and only certified fat-biking guides in Canada’s oldest national park. If you’re unfamiliar with fat bikes, they’re equipped with chunky tyres to help navigate wintery conditions, though Bikescape offers regular bike rides in summer too. Clare is the best hype woman and her energy is infectious, so you couldn’t be in safer or more supportive hands.
For more outdoor adventure in Canada, check out these amazing wildlife experiences
Named for the fourth daughter of Queen Victoria, Lake Louise is fed by a glacier named after the princess's famous mother. In the winter, the waters freeze solid enough to skate on and even walk across, though be extremely careful as the ice can be thin. You can also take a horse-drawn sleigh ride along the lake's edge. Summertime gives Lake Louise its signature turquoise hue, a spectacle only broken up by the red and brown hulls of kayaks and canoes. Whatever the season, no visit is complete without stopping for afternoon tea at the iconic Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise (pictured).
Less than half an hour's drive from Canmore along the Trans-Canada Highway, Banff National Park's eponymous town is a crucial stop for travellers. The perfect place to hit the hay after soaking up the crackling atmosphere of Downtown is Hotel Canoe & Suites, which opened in 2023 at the end of Banff Avenue. Views of the Rockies, like this one snapped from one of the balconies at sunrise, come with a number of the rooms and suites. From summer 2024, the hotel will be adding outdoor hot pools and a sauna to its already impressive list of amenities.
Visited by First Nations peoples for over 10,000 years before they were rediscovered by railway workers in 1883, the thermal springs on Sulphur Mountain in Banff are a cornerstone of Canadian history. Two years after its existence became public knowledge, the cave and its steaming waters were declared a protected reserve, which expanded over time to create what is today known as Banff National Park. Now a designated National Historic Site, it’s no longer possible to enter the springs, but the cave is accessible and an interpretive trail knits all elements of the site together.
Fortunately for those keen to test the restorative qualities of Banff’s mineral-rich waters, there are still hot pools on Sulphur Mountain that you can bathe in. Banff Upper Hot Springs has the highest elevation of any operational hot spring in Canada, overlooked by majestic giants Mount Rundle and Cascade Mountain. A combined ‘thermal waters pass’ gets you access to the outdoor pool at Banff Upper Hot Springs as well as entry to Cave and Basin, about 10 minutes away by car.
Nothing epitomises the pioneer spirit of Canada’s wild west like heading out into the Albertan backcountry on horseback. Based out of Warner Stables, Banff Trail Riders leads travellers into the wilderness along some of the tracks first trodden by the steeds of early trail guides almost a century ago. With around 300 horses under their care, the cowgirls and cowboys match each rider to their perfect trail buddy. You don’t need any previous horse-riding experience to book – just bring your sense of adventure and prepare to see Banff in ways that many others never will.
Founded by medicine woman and traditional knowledge keeper Brenda Holder, Mahikan Trails provides illuminating cultural experiences that share how and what natural remedies can be found among the boreal forests and alpine meadows of southern Alberta. Led by Brenda and her son Jordan Ede, whose family has Cree, Iroquois and Metis roots, these guided walks start with a gesture of thanks – laying tobacco on the ground to signify how "the land does not belong to us, but we belong to the land." We met Jordan at Cascade Ponds in Banff, where he pointed out plants and trees such as moss, aspen and spruce that possess healing properties. This tour runs in all weathers.
Dog sledding has been used as a method of transportation and expeditionary travel in the Rockies for around 100 years, but Kingmik Dog Sled Tours were the first to offer it here commercially, and are one of the few initiatives keeping the tradition alive today. The current alpha in the pack is Megan Routley, whose introduction to mushing in the 1990s ultimately inspired her to leave her jobs and run dog teams for a living – her furry family now includes more than 70 dogs (we’re not jealous at all…). Kingmik’s longest and best-loved tour crosses the Great Divide, the border between Alberta and British Columbia.
We didn’t think anyone could love a cuppa more than the Brits, but it turns out Banffites can give them a run for their money. The history stretches back to the early days of the Canadian Pacific Railway, which built backcountry tea houses in Banff at the beginning of the 20th century. Two of these, Lake Agnes and the Plain of Six Glaciers, are still owned by local families and can be visited in summer. Meanwhile, on Banff's Bear Street, Jolene’s Tea House (pictured) – founded by former Calgary Stampede Queen, Jolene Brewster – is a must-visit. She also helped establish the Banff Cocktail Trail, which maps out seven different tea-infused drinks and where to find them in town.
Meaning ‘water of the spirits’ in the tongue of the Stoney Nakoda First Nations people, archaeological evidence retrieved from around Lake Minnewanka (pictured) dates its human history back 14,000 years. And on an ink-black night, when trillions of stars glitter on the lake’s surface, you can almost feel the souls from its past looking down on you. Close enough to Banff to easily drive to, but far enough away to be unaffected by street lights, Lake Minnewanka is where to find some of the darkest skies in the park. Elsewhere in southern Alberta, the national parks of Jasper and Elk Island are official Dark Sky Preserves.
Many of southern Alberta’s finest restaurants pay homage to wonderful produce sourced from its mountains, rivers, prairies, farms and fields. River Cafe, which sits on an island in a lagoon in the middle of Calgary, was voted one of the most sustainable restaurants in Canada for 2023 by OpenTable. In Canmore, Sauvage offers two imaginative tasting menus – simply called the Hunter and the Gatherer – which evolve with what can be foraged each season (try the juice pairing for something unique). At Banff’s Juniper Bistro, the exciting, regional dishes have to compete with mountain views for attention, so it’s the biggest compliment to say the food comes out on top.
Hannah Foster-Roe visited in March 2024 and was a guest of Travel Alberta, whose website is a treasure trove of resources and inspiration for anyone wishing to explore this exhilarating province. We’d recommend spending 10 to 14 days in southern Alberta in order to see the best it has to offer, while also factoring in some time for rest and reflection. As it feels completely different here from the winter to the summer, it’s definitely somewhere to come at least twice in your lifetime. Travelling from the UK? Air Canada runs direct flights to Calgary (YYC) from London Heathrow and Edinburgh Airport.
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