12 Mediterranean islands where you can escape the crowds
Secret Isles
Santorini, Capri and Hvar are well-trodden Mediterranean hotspots for a reason – they’re gorgeous. But if you’d rather avoid the crowds there are plenty of other idyllic and relatively unknown isles scattered around the Med.
Read on if you’re looking for blue waters, empty beaches, stunning walking trails and sleepy villages...
Iles de Lerins, France
The four Iles de Lerins lie just off the coast of Cannes on the French Riviera – Ile Sainte-Marguerite is the largest while Ile Saint-Honorat has been home to a monastic community since AD 410. A far cry from Cannes’ glitzy Croisette promenade, you can reach the undeveloped wooded isles in just 15 minutes by ferry. While there are no hotels, they make a delightful day trip and exude a blissful calm. Pack a picnic or prepare to pay handsomely for lunch at one of the isle’s few restaurants – La Guerite has lured the jet set since 1902 with its glorious views and upscale food.
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Iles de Lerins, France
Ferries and private yachts take tourists over the sparkling sea to the secluded coves of Ile Sainte-Marguerite where they swim and snorkel in dazzling turquoise waters. The main sight on the island is the infamous 17th-century Fort Royal, where the mysterious Man in the Iron Mask was imprisoned. It's now a maritime museum. Modern wonders lurk beneath the isle’s waters too – British artist Jason deCaires Taylor's underwater museum, opened in 2021, has several sculptures on the seafloor.
Iles de Lerins, France
It’s possible to visit the monastic island of Ile Saint-Honorat by ferry from Cannes too. Here you can wander around monuments, including the fortified medieval monastery at the tip of the island, or follow shady trails through forests of Aleppo and umbrella pines and past verdant vineyards. Six different grape varieties are cultivated by the Cistercian monks of Lerins Abbey and seven different types of wine produced, using ancient methods of viticulture. Try some at La Tonnelle, the isle’s only restaurant which opens for lunch and serves the abbey’s wines and liqueurs.
Sifnos, Greece
A little-known jewel of the Cyclades chain in the southern Aegean, Sifnos can be reached by ferry from Piraeus in two hours. It’s a sleepy enclave where those in the know go to unwind on uncrowded sandy beaches or to take solitary hikes through olive groves, past little churches and along its wild coastline to seek out secluded swimming spots. Simple pleasures are what a holiday in Sifnos is all about.
Sifnos, Greece
Ferries arrive in the little port of Kamares while Apollonia in the centre of the island is the main hub and home to a fairly lively bar and restaurant scene. Quieter, and arguably the prettiest, village Artemonas has plenty of charm, as does little fishing village Heronissos in the north. Spend time exploring the medieval citadel Kastro with its labyrinthine alleyways too. The best way to seek out Sifnos' remote and ravishing spots is on foot – it has more than 62 miles (100km) of marked paths, known as the Sifnos Trails.
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Sifnos, Greece
The isolated Church of the Seven Martyrs, which lies just beneath Kastro, is one of many churches on the island and its most famous sight. Across Greece, Sifnos is renowned for its culinary traditions – it was home to one of the country’s first famous chefs, Nicholas Tselementes. Seafood and chickpeas are staples of Sifniot cooking, the latter are cooked as a hearty soup in island-made earthenware pots. There are delicious pastries and sweets too. Stay in the charming guesthouse Verina Astra in Artemonas, a great base for seeking out the island’s traditional tavernas and artisan shops.
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Ponza, Italy
Make like a Roman and hop on a hydrofoil or ferry from Anzio, Formia and Terracina on the Lazio coast, or the port of Naples in the south, to Ponza, an unspoiled little island in the Tyrrhenian Sea. While the largest of the Pontine Islands might be a popular weekend and summer escape for Italians, it's little-known outside of Italy. And all the more appealing for it.
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Ponza, Italy
Its ancient harbour, known simply as Porto, is the largest settlement on Ponza with colourful houses clinging to the cliffside. It can be thronged with Italian holidaymakers in the summer, but visit in the off-season and it's decidedly sleepy. Take a wander and you'll discover numerous classy boutiques, enticing bakeries and a remarkable number of fine restaurants among the narrow passageways.
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Ponza, Italy
The best way to appreciate Ponza's bizarre and beautiful geological formations is from the water. Rent a boat from the port (with or without a skipper) and do a circuit of the rugged coastline with its sheer cliffs and rock arches. Drop anchor in a sheltered bay and plunge into the sea for a swim or paddle to explore its ancient man-made grottoes. You can also take a boat trip to two other islands in the Pontine archipelago, Palmarola and Zannone. Their rocky outcrops also have stunning rock formations.
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Ponza, Italy
The large volcanic outcrop, which has been inhabited since Neolithic times, also has many Roman remnants, including the Grotte di Pilato near the harbour – a network of caves built to harvest salt and breed moray eels. In recent years, Ponza has become a popular retreat for celebs and well-heeled types so has some suitably grand places to stay such as clifftop Hotel Chiaia di Luna above the beach of the same name. It also has more simple but lovely family-run hotels such as Hotel Mari, overlooking the harbour.
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Porquerolles, France
Just minutes from the Cote d'Azur's hectic hotspots, the empty beaches, dense woods and vineyards of Ile de Porquerolles – one of the three Golden Isles – feel a world away. Add to this the fact that cars aren't allowed on the isle and you really do enter a different world. The north, especially the exquisite Plage de Notre Dame, can be a little busy with day-trippers in high season, but once the last ferry has left for Hyeres on the mainland, you'll pretty much have the place to yourself.
Porquerolles, France
The best bet is to hire a bike to get around. Wheel your way along winding tracks to find idyllic beaches and ancient forts. White-sand Plage d'Argent is a lovely place to spend a day – pack a picnic or feast on simple seafood in the beachside restaurant. There are several hotels, simple hostels and holiday apartments, but if money is no object it has to be Le Mas du Langoustier in a remote spot on the west side of the island (open late April until late September) with excellent restaurants.
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Porquerolles, France
The hotel was built by wealthy Belgian adventurer Francois Joseph Fournier, who bought the island in 1912 for his wife. He also planted hundreds of acres of vines and hundreds of trees to reforest the island. Now owned by the French state, Porquerolles has protected status as it was added to the Port-Cros National Park in 2012. The isle has three vineyards, including the original Domaine de L’Ile, an organic wine estate which is now owned by fashion brand Chanel.
Egadi Islands, Italy
Strewn a few miles off the coast of west Sicily, tranquil bays, isolated mountain paths and a slow pace of life are waiting to be discovered on these three little islands and two islets that lie in a marine reserve. The Egadi, or the Aegadian, might not be as well-known as Sicily's Aeolian Islands, but they're nonethless appealing. Favignana is the largest and most populated, Levanzo the smallest and Marettimo the most remote and wild. Wherever you explore, you can be sure you'll find that all-important laid-back island vibe.
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Egadi Islands, Italy
If you're looking to meander around remote coastal paths, moor up at Marettimo. There are scenic well-marked trails to follow around its rugged mountainous hinterland. To really push yourself, scale the top of Pizzo Falcone, the island's highest peak, or take a gentler stroll up from the harbour to see the remains of an old Roman garrison. Wherever you roam you'll be rewarded with soaring views of the steep cliffs and shimmering sea.
Egadi Islands, Italy
Be sure to get out on a boat so you can really explore the Egadi islands' intriguing coastlines. Moor up to take a swim in one of the little beaches or drop anchor to gawp into the many sea caves and grottos that riddle their rocky coastlines. Pack a snorkel – the sea is astonishingly clear and its protected waters are home to numerous species, including the rare monk seal. The prehistoric cave paintings at the Grotta del Genovese on the island of Levanzo are a must-see.
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Egadi Islands, Italy
The Egadi, which are accessible by ferry from Trapani on Sicily’s west coast, have a rich tradition of fishing. Once home to a thriving tuna fishing industry, the island of Favignana is still famed for its tuna delicacies. Its elegant old tuna cannery is now a museum (pictured). To fully catch the maritime vibe, hole up in a beautifully restored fisherman's cottage on Marettimo.
Formentera, Spain
The smallest of the inhabited Balearic Islands, Formentera is known as hedonistic Ibiza's hippy little sister. While its vast stretches of white sand, shallow waters, sand dunes and chilled out chiringuitos (beach bars) make it a popular bolt hole for jaded partygoers in season, it's more than that. Hop on board a ferry at Port d'Eivissa for the 45-minute ride (or zip over in style by water taxi) for a few days and you'll see why.
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Formentera, Spain
The buzzy marina of La Savina is where the ferries arrive and mega-yachts drop their anchors in season. There are lovely places to eat and drink here or follow the smart set to Juan Y Andrea on the gorgeous little Playa de Illetes for lobster paella (only open from lunch to early evening in the summer season). Away from the beaches, Sant Francesc Xavier is well worth a wander for a slice of local life and some excellent places to eat.
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Formentera, Spain
Sunsets are a big deal on Formentera. They're dramatic and beautiful and what many Ibiza day-trippers come here for, preferably with a cocktail or cava in hand. Various chic beach bars and restaurants dot the coast, but the crowds are nothing compared to Ibiza. Island institutions Bluebar Formentera, Kiosko 62 and Tiburon on laid-back Migjorn beach are some of the best chiringuitos for sundowners followed by a twilight swim. Or seek solitude as you watch the sun drop at Es Cap de Barbaria lighthouse on the isle’s far southwestern point.
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Bozcaada, Turkey
Are you in Greece or Turkey? It's hard to tell on this peach of an island in the Aegean, which used to be known as Tenedos. Over the centuries it has been conquered by the Phoenicians, Athenians, Greeks, Persians, Venetians, Genoese, Byzantines and Ottomans. Today, Bozcaada belongs to Turkey and is a favourite weekend escape for people from Istanbul. But, as you'll discover in the ancient island's historic quarter, the Greek heritage remains strong.
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Bozcaada, Turkey
With its white-washed buildings, cobblestone streets, traditional vine-clad taverna and wine shops, Bozcaada's historic harbour is all that you could want from an island getaway. Boats arrive from the mainland towns of Geyikli and Canakkale but it's rarely busy, especially out of high season. Rent a bike to explore and the sparse crowds will slip away altogether as you discover gorgeous but empty beaches and the vineyards unfurling around you.
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Bozcaada, Turkey
Bozcaada has an age-old wine-making tradition with around a third of it covered by vines, including native grape varieties. Corvus is one of the most famous and revered brands. While it's tempting to while away the hours enjoying the local drops in a wine bar, be sure to visit the informative museum to learn about local history – the age-old isle is referenced by Homer as the hiding place for the Greeks’ ships after they left the wooden horse to trick the Trojans. Walkers should head to the 15th-century Bozcaada Castle, looming over the northeast coast, for beautiful views.
Solta, Croatia
Swim, eat, drink, repeat. That will be your mantra while holidaying on Solta. It's just a half-hour-hop from the busy city of Split by ferry but you may as well be days away. Even though you can see the island from Split, it's mostly overlooked by the masses in favour of other Dalmatian isles. While they're still crammed on the ferry to Hvar, you'll be splashing about in one of Solta's little bays or be sat harbourside with a drink in hand.
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Solta, Croatia
Solta is scattered with secluded places for bathing with many wild, shingly bays that can only be reached by bike, foot or boat. Spend a day pedalling around to see more of this island, which is mostly known for its olive oil, honey and wines, then cool off in the enticing sparkling waters. Tranquil Zaglav Bay and Tatinja Bay, both walkable from the island’s oldest settlement Grohote, are gems. The stone village is the island's administrative centre and worth a wander to get a sense of traditional life.
Solta, Croatia
Base yourself in pretty Maslinica on the west coast. Backed by pines, it is Solta's liveliest and most attractive resort. It's also where you'll find the smartest place to stay on the island – the gorgeous Martinis Marchi Heritage Hotel. It's located in a former 18th-century castle and has lovely rooms with soaring Adriatic views. For more down-to-earth but charming accommodation, there are many apartments for hire.
Folegandros, Greece
This 12-square-mile (32sq km) rocky island in the Cyclades is as far removed from thronged Santorini and Mykonos as you can imagine. With no direct flights or cruise ships, this is a place to retreat to for a slice of traditional Greek island life. Folegandros is on the ferry line from Piraeus to Santorini, or you can fly to Milos or Santorini and hop on the hour-long ferry. So if it's solo swims in the Aegean, sleepy days and unobscured sunset views you're after, look no further.
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Folegandros, Greece
The ancient, white-washed town of Chora, with its dramatic clifftop position, is where you'll find most tavernas, bars and places to stay. In season, its narrow streets and little squares are relatively lively by night but by day it's decidedly sleepy. Take a boat tour to explore isolated coves and go swimming into sea caves. Hike along the old stone donkey paths that criss-cross the island or simply laze in the sun guilt-free.
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Folegandros, Greece
Panagia, an impressive white church overlooking Chora, is where people go to watch the dazzling Aegean sunrise and sunset on Folegandros. Wind your way up the hill along the zig-zag path for a pre-dinner workout and sensational views. Return back to feast on octopus and fava beans or local pasta matsata in one of Chora's delightful tavernas such as Pounta. Then retire for a blissful night's sleep at the charming family-run Anemomilos Boutique Hotel.
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Lastovo, Croatia
Sleepy Lastovo is a world apart from some of Croatia's popular islands. Craggy, wooded and far-flung, it was closed to the public for 50 years as a Yugoslav military base which explains why it's so unspoiled. Today, it has a small population, which swells slightly with visitors in summer. There's not a great deal to occupy you other than sailing around its isles and inlets, following walking trails or mooching about the sleepy towns. But that makes it ideal if you're looking to escape the Med’s crowds.
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Lastovo, Croatia
The under-the-radar Lastovo archipelago is serviced by catamaran (three hours) and car ferry (four-and-a-quarter hours) from Split. Once you arrive in the port at Ubli, you can relax knowing that you're in for a week of unhurried life. You can charter a boat to sail around its 46 small islands or go diving and take a walk around its vineyards and pine forests. Matching the number of its uninhabited islets, Lastovo also has 46 fine little churches that are dotted around the sparsely populated isle.
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Lastovo, Croatia
Take a wander around the villages – apart from Ubli there are Zaklopatica and the island's namesake Lastovo. The latter is slightly inland, with stone houses clinging to a hill, and you'll find a clutch of traditional restaurants there. Look out for the striking chimneys – it was traditional for families to have their own unique design in the 17th and 18th centuries. Stay at the aptly named Hotel Solitudo – the island’s only hotel which is surrounded by pine woods and wonderfully wild beaches. Feast on Dalmatian-style spiny lobster at Porto Rosso on Skrivena Luka, also known as Hidden Bay, on the southern coast.
Kastellorizo, Greece
The dinkiest isle in the Dodecanese is also one of the prettiest with its colourful harbour, waterside tavernas, impossibly clear seas and glorious bays. A laid-back, unhurried feel permeates life in Kastellorizo, which is the furthest inhabited isle from Athens sitting just off southern Turkey. Known as Megisti in ancient times, the island has an intriguing meld of Greek and Turkish culture.
Kastellorizo, Greece
Be sure to pack some good reads for your holiday as Kastellorizo sees little action. Days are best spent reading, diving into the sea off the rocks or pootling around its picturesque harbour town Mandraki. It's lined with large pastel-hued mansions, indicative of the island's wealthy seafaring past. Here you'll find some lovely spots to feast on the local seafood, as you watch the boats come and go.
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Kastellorizo, Greece
Other island musts are hiking to the ruins of a crumbling Crusader castle and a boat trip to see the Blue Cave on the isle’s southeast coast. The cathedral-like sea cave has stalactites and startlingly blue water. If you're feeling energetic, you can catch a boat over to Kas which lies just three miles (4.8km) over the strait on the Turkish coast for the day. Book a room at the lovely little Caretta Pension, set just back from the quayside, or chic boutique hotel Mediterraneo Kastelorizo which has harbour views.
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The Maddalena archipelago, Italy
Strewn between Sardinia and Corsica, the seven rugged and wooded islands and 55 tiny isolotti of La Maddalena Archipelago National Park are quite simply heavenly. All white sands, craggy coves and grappa-clear calm water, they are a beach lover’s dream destination. Bar the yachting set who sail from Costa Smeralda to flit between their idyllic empty bays, very few people have discovered their pleasures.
The Maddalena archipelago, Italy
If you don’t have a yacht to hand, the islands are a quick 20-minute ferry ride from Palau in Sardinia to La Maddalena, the main island. Its attractive historic port is surprisingly lively and a charming place to wander with enticing bars, restaurants and markets. But the main draw of this archipelago are its undeveloped sandy beaches, turquoise lagoons (like the Porto della Madonna, pictured, located between the islands of Santa Maria, Razzoli and Budelli) and wooded inlets that shelter secret swimming spots – lap them up by heading out on a boat tour.
The Maddalena archipelago, Italy
The archipelago is perfect for lounging on gloriously empty crescents of white sand and snorkelling in utter seclusion in craggy coves. Spargi is a wonderfully wild little isle with herb-scented hiking trails that lead to tiny bays and the remains of old fortifications. Divers can also duck down to see old shipwrecks, including the skeleton of a Roman cargo ship. Stay on La Maddalena island: Grand Hotel Resort and Spa Ma&Ma in Punta Tegge on the southern coast is the smartest stay on the isles.
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