What it’s like to work at the end of the world
Working in the world's most remote post office
Port Lockroy is one of the most remote places on Earth. The natural harbour, post office and museum are all located on Goudier Island, Antarctica, which is just the size of a football field. Each year the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust hires a small team of four to run the historic site and welcome cruise ships from November to March. One of the last season’s employees, Laura MacNeil, tells us all about working in the extreme conditions of the Antarctic.
A lifelong dream
I have had a longstanding fascination with Antarctica since reading Terra Incognita by Sara Wheeler in 1997. This book sparked an interest in the history of exploration in Antarctica – particularly Heroic Era expeditions such as those of Scott and Shackleton – but also an interest in life in modern day Antarctica. Getting there became a lifetime ambition. When I saw this job, and realised that there was an opportunity not only to visit, but to live and work there, I knew I had to apply.
A team of four
We were a team of four, selected not only to fulfil various roles required in running the site but also based on our ability to work well together under the challenging conditions of the Antarctic. Our team consisted of our base leader Adele Jackson, who was returning for her second year, Hannelore Cuypers, a dentist from Norway, and Lucy Dorman, who previously was a dog sled guide.
Icy waters
It took seven days sailing from Ushuaia in Argentina before we arrived in Port Lockroy in early November. As it was the beginning of the season, Goudier Island was surrounded by sea ice and was inaccessible by boat so we were dropped off at a neighbouring point and had to walk across the sea ice – a very exciting way to arrive!
Dinner time
Our food was delivered in a cargo drop early in the season and it consisted mostly of tinned and dried food. We ate a lot of Spam, Fray Bentos Pies and Smash instant potatoes. We were lucky that Hannelore was a particularly good cook and could make a delicious meal out of anything. Visiting ships were also very generous and often provided us with fresh fruit, veg, cheese and eggs.
Living without electricity and water
Life at Port Lockroy is very different from life anywhere in the world, it’s much simpler I guess. There is no mains electricity, no Internet, no running water. Ships provided us with fresh water for cooking, drinking and brushing teeth, however we only got showers when visiting ships could provide them. The toilet facilities were very basic as well. We had a toilet bucket, which we emptied into the sea, as per a special permit.
Life at Port Lockroy
A typical day started with an early breakfast before welcoming the morning cruise ship around 8am. While one of us delivered a brief introduction to the island on board, the rest of us would prepare the site for visitors – if there was snow, we would ensure the paths are not slippery or, later in the season, when the snow had cleared, we had to scrub the paths to get rid of the penguin guano to ensure the visitors weren’t walking it into the museum.
The penguin colony
We didn’t have much need for entertainment as in Antarctic summer the daylight hours were very long so we would usually spend about 12 to 16 hours working. But when we did have time to relax, there was plenty of wildlife to watch, like birds and seals and particularly the Gentoo penguin colony.
Observing wildlife
We had the privilege of living in such close quarters to a penguin colony so we saw them mating, building their nests, laying eggs, and their chicks hatching and growing feathers. But we also witnessed the more brutal side of the wildlife – skua seabirds would attack the eggs and leopard seals ate some of the penguins.
Amazing sunsets
Nevertheless, Antarctica is beautiful. Goudier Island is surrounded by mountains and glaciers so our everyday views were stunning. One night we were invited on an evening cruise down the Lemaire Channel and saw the most amazing sunset.
The simple life
Despite the relative simplicity of our lives at Lockroy, we were comfortable and happy. The four of us were lucky to get on really well and I’m sure we’ll be in touch for a very long time. It was great to realise how little we really need to survive.
Amazing experience
It’s an amazing experience but also incredibly hard work. If you’re interested, it’s important to be honest with yourself about whether you would enjoy the long hours, confined living conditions and simple lifestyle. I know I have an even deeper appreciation for Antarctica and a desire to return.