Secrets of Sussex: Harry and Meghan’s royal county revealed
DANIEL LEAL-OLIVAS/AFP/Getty Images/Chris Dorney/Shutterstock
Everything you need to know about Sussex
The English county of Sussex made the headlines in 2018 when Her Majesty the Queen named Prince Harry and Meghan Markle the Duke and Duchess of Sussex after they married at Windsor Castle in May. But what does this royal county have to offer visitors? From palaces to piers, where to stay and what to eat, we've rounded up the region's highlights so you can follow in the footsteps of the royal pair.
ViktorKeryPhotos/Shutterstock
Where is Sussex?
Directly south of London, bordering Surrey, Kent and Hampshire, Sussex is actually made up of two counties: East and West. The region is characterised by its beautiful southern coastline, the undulating chalky hills of the South Downs and the forested Sussex Weald. This bucolic area has quaint villages, quintessentially English countryside and some glorious seaside towns, and overall makes for a brilliant road trip destination or weekend away being under an hour from the capital.
There’s a big, bohemian city
Brighton was one of the few places to star on the whistle-stop royal tour in October 2018, which saw Harry and Meghan visit several of the county’s key destinations. This seaside city is famous for its long pebble beach, quaint shopping lanes and the rather eccentric Pavilion in its centre. Built as a summer palace for King George IV in 1815, it’s now a museum showcasing its original opulent interiors.
There’s a big, bohemian city
Shopping is a big draw here, as pretty little boutiques line The Lanes, an area of narrow streets with independent shops and cafés. Seek out a bargain in vintage market Snoopers Paradise, then head to the pier. After the original burned to a crisp in 1975 – still visible on the horizon at the western end of town – the current Brighton Palace Pier has all the seaside kitsch you could ask for. Arcades, fish and chips, and rides, it’s the classic day out at the beach.
And some small but spectacular seaside towns
With the long coastline comes some lovely little seaside towns. Hastings is one of the best along the Sussex coast, with its pebble beach and long pier jutting out into the ocean. The old town is the highlight where tall, black fishing net sheds sit on the beach and working boats are slumped on the sand ready to be taken out by the local fishermen. Come evening, book into Rock-A-Nore Kitchen to dine on the freshest fish in town. Read our guide to Hastings here.
Lance Bellers/Shutterstock
And some small but spectacular seaside towns
Another delightful coastal highlight is Bexhill on Sea. Once a rundown seaside town, it's making a concerted comeback as a veritable weekend away. There’s gelato, spectacular seaside architecture (don’t miss the twin-domed Colonnade on the seafront) and of course, plenty of good old fish and chips. There’s also the Bexhill Museum with a few unique attractions. Read our guide here for more Bexhill inspiration.
Dmitry Naumov/Shutterstock
It’s a walker’s paradise
Sussex is also home to the South Downs, one of 15 national parks in Britain. It’s a prime walking destination with a superb, 100-mile foot, cycle and bridle path called the South Downs Way. Stretching all the way from Winchester in Hampshire, along the undulating Downs and ending in Eastbourne, there’s wildlife, history and country pubs galore.
jamesdavidphoto/Shutterstock
It’s a walker’s paradise
A great place to start is Ditchling Beacon where a steep hill takes you onto the path and along to the Plumpton Plain. There are spectacular views south and on clear days you can see right to the ocean. In Plumpton, stop in for a classic pub meal and real ale at The Half Moon Inn before wending your way towards the traditional market town of Lewes (find out more about charming Lewes here).
Paul Daniels/Shutterstock
There’s incredible scenery
No, these aren’t the white cliffs of Dover but instead the Seven Sisters in Sussex. Within the South Downs National Park, these striking cliffs are a truly spectacular sight when approached on foot. Head there via the Cuckmere River for a breathtaking big reveal. The beach here is well worth a picnic pit stop and within the Seven Sisters Country Park there are more glorious walks, cycle paths, canoeing and stand-up paddle boarding.
Justine Kibler/Shutterstock
There’s incredible scenery
More gorgeous scenes can be found at Camber Sands, particularly when the tide is out. Backed by grassy dunes, the soft, sandy beach is rare on this coastline (most are pebble beaches) and it stretches for almost five miles, offering plenty of room for the hundreds of holidaymakers that visit every summer.
Quaint villages make delightful pit stops
If quaint country living is what you’re after, Sussex has it in spades. Dotted among the lush landscape are plenty of small villages with historic appeal. Alfriston in East Sussex is one of the prettiest, with half-timbered houses and thatched cottages. Visit Clergy House, the first property acquired by the National Trust in 1896 and enjoy a traditional pub lunch at the medieval George Inn.
Mark Bridge/Flickr/CC BY-NC-ND 2.0
Quaint villages make delightful pit stops
Slindon is another chocolate box village in Sussex with just 500 residents, a smattering of cute cottages and one of the oldest cricket clubs in the country. In spring you’ll find bluebell woods and in autumn the pumpkin farm sells enormous squashes. The village shop, The Forge, is inside an old blacksmith’s workshop and sells produce from surrounding farms and serves home-baked cakes at its café.
The Battle of Hastings was fought here
The famous 1066 battle between the Norman-French and English armies took place here in Sussex. A rather unassuming field today, it was the scene of a fight that changed Britain’s history forever and a turning point in William, the Duke of Normandy’s, conquest of England. The appropriately named town of Battle is the epicentre of where the action took place and you can visit the ruined Battle Abbey, built by William the Conqueror after the bloody struggle.
The Battle of Hastings was fought here
The battlefield is just beyond the abbey where an audio guide offers insights and a wood sculpture trail makes for a peaceful place of reflection. Head to the visitor centre for interactive displays detailing the history of the area and stop off for an afternoon tea in the café afterwards.
James Kevin McMahon/Wikimedia/CC BY-SA 4.0
It’s home of the world marble championships
Quirky festivals abound in Britain, from cheese-rolling to wife-carrying and in Sussex, there’s the World Marbles Championships. Held annually on Good Friday in The Greyhound pub on Tinsley Green, teams from all over the UK and the world come to compete. The aim of the game is to knock the cluster of marbles out of the ring using a larger marble (the tolley) and teams can have up to six players.
sirtravelalot/Shutterstock
It’s home of the world marble championships
The game as it’s played today dates back to 1932, but the history of the marbles game goes as far back as the 16th century. Teams come from as far as Algeria and the USA, and the reigning champions are Saxonia Globe Snippers from Germany. The losers, it can be said, have quite literally lost their marbles at the end of the day.
Rebecca Fitzgerald/Shutterstock
And a bizarre Guy Fawkes display
“Remember, remember the fifth of November”, so the rhyme goes and a Guy Fawkes night (always celebrated on 5 November) spent in Lewes is certainly not one to be forgotten. The town has a history of hosting fiery displays for Bonfire Night – a commemoration of the plot to blow up the Houses of Parliament in London in 1605 – involving a costumed torch-lit procession and burning effigies of current politicians.
And a bizarre Guy Fawkes display
Bonfires are lit around the edges of town and thousands gather to warm by the flames, eat toffee apples, toast marshmallows and watch fireworks scream and pop in the skies.
You can stay in a fairy-tale tower
Live out your prince or princess dreams at Laughton Place. This brick tower is all that’s left of the large house that was built here in 1534 by the Pelham family, who owned a number of estates around Sussex. Today, the Landmark Trust run the property as a self-catering accommodation after a pain-staking restoration in the late 1970s.
You can stay in a fairy-tale tower
With two bedrooms, a fully-equipped farmhouse-style kitchen and spectacular views out to the South Downs and Ashdown Forest, it’s a quintessential English stay. Plus, it’s dog-friendly so walks on the Downs with the mutt are spectacular.
Or you can sleep in a disused church
If hotels are just too normal for you, then consider ‘champing’ – camping in a church. Set amid the South Downs National Park, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Warminghurst is one of the more unusual accommodation options in Sussex. It’s 13th century on the outside with an 18th-century interior, and thanks to the Churches Conservation Trust, you can stay there overnight.
Or you can sleep in a disused church
The concept of champing was born a few years ago as a way to raise money to keep Britain’s historic, disused churches alive. Don’t expect king-size beds or rain showers, though. You’ll be sleeping on camp beds between the pews, the perfect vantage point from which to admire the spectacular curved wooden beams across the ceiling. Nearby is the Iron Age fort of Chanctonbury Ring which is well worth a morning hike.
blackberrywoodsussex/Instagram
There’s an unusual campsite
Find your own little woodland hideaway at Blackberry Wood, a campsite with a difference. This East Sussex campground has usual tent pitches plus a few unusual accommodation options, such as a converted search and rescue helicopter or an old Routemaster double decker bus.
There’s an unusual campsite
The enterprising owners have also built two incredible treehouses. Ideal for those who don’t want to go without creature comforts, they have fully equipped kitchens, bathrooms and proper bedrooms, linen and all. These really are right out of a fairy tale. Explore more unusual places to stay in the UK here.
There are some superb luxury hotels
Sussex is full of excellent accommodation, from country house hotels to quaint B&Bs. One of our favourites is the Park House Hotel, which not only has the appeal of an English country house but also houses a brilliant spa where you can rest those aching muscles after a day’s walking. There’s an indoor pool, hot tub and sauna, as well as treatments using VOYA and Caudalie products.
There are some superb luxury hotels
Further east, Gravetye Manor is another wonderful retreat. Set within 1,000 acres of historic gardens landscaped by William Robinson in 1885 and home to a Michelin-starred restaurant, this 420-year-old hotel is a sumptuous Sussex getaway. Rooms have regal furnishings, some with dark wood-panelled walls and many have spellbinding views over the surrounding countryside.
And you can stay at one of England’s oldest inns
Dating back to 1430, The Spread Eagle is one of England’s oldest coaching inns. With patrons including Lord Nelson, it has an illustrious history. Owned by Sir William Fitzwilliam, Henry VIII's Lord High Admiral, it saw the royal, rich and famous rest in its beds over the centuries. Today, it’s a delightful 3-star inn, with seven rooms and a brilliant restaurant, complete with a wide, open fireplace for cosy afternoon teas.
And you can stay at one of England’s oldest inns
There’s even a modern, Scandi-style spa with an indoor pool and relaxation room, plus yoga classes and a fitness suite. It’s also not far from the impressive Cowdray ruins. Once a fine Tudor house visited by both Henry VIII and Queen Elizabeth I, it's now a picturesque 500-year-old crumble of bricks on a beautiful estate.
Adam Tinworth/Flickr/CC BY-NC 2.0
Farmers' markets make for brilliant buys
One of the highlights in any rural area in England is a farmers’ market and Sussex has a handful of excellent places to shop. Head to Chichester to bag bargains from the Sussex Pie Co. or The Traditional Cheese Dairy in the city’s historic centre, or make for Shoreham for a little retail therapy at the Artisans’ Market. You might pick up a bottle of local gin or handmade, natural candles.
lewes_food_market/Instagram
Farmers' markets make for brilliant buys
In Lewes, it’s all about food. The town’s Friday Food Market, held inside the 226-year-old Grade II-listed Market Tower, is a delicious, irresistible display of local produce and artisanal fodder. Pick up a sourdough loaf from the Flint Owl Bakery stall, some expertly-roasted coffee from JaJu Beans and Leaves, and puddings, possets, fools or syllabubs from The Pudding Co.
Plus, you can explore vineyards
It might come as a surprise to some that Sussex is home to a smattering of excellent winemakers. With one of the warmest and driest climates in the UK, it’s a great area for growing grapes. Sparkling English wines have been beating Champagne in tasting competitions all over the world for years now and Sussex is the home ground of some of the finest. The most famous is Nyetimber, who have open days throughout the summer, but stop by the likes of the Rathfinny Estate (their Flint Barns are a wonderful accommodation option and have a great restaurant) or Ridgeview.
Gill Copeland/Shutterstock
Plus, you can explore vineyards
The wonderfully-named Breaky Bottom is perhaps the most picturesque vineyard in all of Sussex, its rows of vines a beautiful sight on a sunny day. Here, winemaker Peter Hall has been producing since the 1970s and his Seyval Blanc is a must-try. Over in East Sussex, Oxney Estate produces organic sparkling wines and has shepherd’s huts for glamping weekends so you never have to be too far from your next bottle.
chris dorney/Shutterstock
There’s a near-1,000-year-old castle
Overlooking the River Arun in West Sussex, the first iteration of Arundel Castle was built around 1070. It was added to by its various owners over the centuries and badly damaged during the English Civil War. Restored in the 1700s, today it still stands as the seat of the Dukes of Norfolk, and visitors are welcome in its many stately rooms and gardens.
Alexandra Reinwald/Shutterstock
There’s a near-1,000-year-old castle
See the bedroom furniture made especially for when Queen Victoria and Prince Albert stayed here or enjoy one of the many events held within its grounds. Expect medieval combat reenactments, jousting and educational family history weekends.
JoanneCleeve/Shutterstock
And a Baroque-style palace
See works by the likes of Van Dyck, Turner, Reynolds and Gainsborough in the National Trust’s Petworth House. This stunning stately home was built by one family over the course of 900 years and now houses a spectacular collection of artworks and artefacts, including England’s oldest globe made in 1592.
Brian Clifford/Shutterstock
And a Baroque-style palace
Explore the grand state rooms and the contrasting servants’ quarters before heading out into the gardens. The estate was created by landscape architect Capability Brown and features a number of his classic touches, such as the Ionic Rotunda and Doric Temple. Wander among the deer in the Pleasure Gardens and enjoy views out to the South Downs – the landscape that inspired Turner’s paintings inside the house.
Don't miss our feature showcasing Incredible photos of Britain from above
And you can watch world-class opera
Perhaps a surprising find in this rather unassuming and out-of-the-way location, rising out of the green Sussex countryside just east of Lewes, is a 1,200-seat, world-class opera house. Glyndebourne is something unique in the music world. Despite its worldwide fame, it remains a family operation. Started in 1934 by John Christie, it’s now run by his grandson, Gus, and it sits next to the country home of its founder.
Take a peek at 40 places you won't believe are in the UK
And you can watch world-class opera
The opera house attracts the best artists from all over the world and puts on over 120 performances a year for around 150,000 people. But its most famous event is the Glyndebourne Festival, a programme of six operas that run throughout the summer. Thousands come here to picnic in its grounds, dressed in their finery, before settling into the auditorium to watch the latest performance. There may be no more quintessentially English experience than this.
Now discover 66 of the prettiest towns and villages in the UK