12 Mediterranean islands where you can escape the crowds
Secret Isles
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Santorini, Capri and Hvar are well-trodden Mediterranean hotspots for a reason – they’re gorgeous. But if you’d rather avoid the crowds there are plenty of other idyllic and relatively unknown isles scattered around the Med.
Read on if you’re looking for blue waters, empty beaches, stunning walking trails and sleepy villages...
Iles de Lerins, France
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The four Iles de Lerins lie just off the coast of Cannes on the French Riviera – Ile Sainte-Marguerite is the largest while Ile Saint-Honorat has been home to a monastic community since AD 410. A far cry from Cannes’ glitzy Croisette promenade, you can reach the undeveloped wooded isles in just 15 minutes by ferry. While there are no hotels, they make a delightful day trip and exude a blissful calm. Pack a picnic or prepare to pay handsomely for lunch at one of the isle’s few restaurants – La Guerite has lured the jet set since 1902 with its glorious views and upscale food.
Iles de Lerins, France
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Ferries and private yachts take tourists over the sparkling sea to the secluded coves of Ile Sainte-Marguerite where they swim and snorkel in dazzling turquoise waters. The main sight on the island is the infamous 17th-century Fort Royal, where the mysterious Man in the Iron Mask was imprisoned. It's now a maritime museum. Modern wonders lurk beneath the isle’s waters too – British artist Jason deCaires Taylor's underwater museum, opened in 2021, has several sculptures on the seafloor.
Iles de Lerins, France
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It’s possible to visit the monastic island of Ile Saint-Honorat by ferry from Cannes too. Here you can wander around monuments, including the fortified medieval monastery at the tip of the island, or follow shady trails through forests of Aleppo and umbrella pines and past verdant vineyards. Six different grape varieties are cultivated by the Cistercian monks of Lerins Abbey and seven different types of wine produced, using ancient methods of viticulture. Try some at La Tonnelle, the isle’s only restaurant which opens for lunch and serves the abbey’s wines and liqueurs.
Sifnos, Greece
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Sifnos, Greece
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Ferries arrive in the little port of Kamares while Apollonia in the centre of the island is the main hub and home to a fairly lively bar and restaurant scene. Quieter, and arguably the prettiest, village Artemonas has plenty of charm, as does little fishing village Heronissos in the north. Spend time exploring the medieval citadel Kastro with its labyrinthine alleyways too. The best way to seek out Sifnos' remote and ravishing spots is on foot – it has more than 62 miles (100km) of marked paths, known as the Sifnos Trails.
Sifnos, Greece
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The isolated Church of the Seven Martyrs, which lies just beneath Kastro, is one of many churches on the island and its most famous sight. Across Greece, Sifnos is renowned for its culinary traditions – it was home to one of the country’s first famous chefs, Nicholas Tselementes. Seafood and chickpeas are staples of Sifniot cooking, the latter are cooked as a hearty soup in island-made earthenware pots. There are delicious pastries and sweets too. Stay in the charming guesthouse Verina Astra in Artemonas, a great base for seeking out the island’s traditional tavernas and artisan shops.
Ponza, Italy
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Ponza, Italy
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Ponza, Italy
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The best way to appreciate Ponza's bizarre and beautiful geological formations is from the water. Rent a boat from the port (with or without a skipper) and do a circuit of the rugged coastline with its sheer cliffs and rock arches. Drop anchor in a sheltered bay and plunge into the sea for a swim or paddle to explore its ancient man-made grottoes. You can also take a boat trip to two other islands in the Pontine archipelago, Palmarola and Zannone. Their rocky outcrops also have stunning rock formations.
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Ponza, Italy
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The large volcanic outcrop, which has been inhabited since Neolithic times, also has many Roman remnants, including the Grotte di Pilato near the harbour – a network of caves built to harvest salt and breed moray eels. In recent years, Ponza has become a popular retreat for celebs and well-heeled types so has some suitably grand places to stay such as clifftop Hotel Chiaia di Luna above the beach of the same name. It also has more simple but lovely family-run hotels such as Hotel Mari, overlooking the harbour.
Porquerolles, France
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Just minutes from the Cote d'Azur's hectic hotspots, the empty beaches, dense woods and vineyards of Ile de Porquerolles – one of the three Golden Isles – feel a world away. Add to this the fact that cars aren't allowed on the isle and you really do enter a different world. The north, especially the exquisite Plage de Notre Dame, can be a little busy with day-trippers in high season, but once the last ferry has left for Hyeres on the mainland, you'll pretty much have the place to yourself.
Porquerolles, France
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The best bet is to hire a bike to get around. Wheel your way along winding tracks to find idyllic beaches and ancient forts. White-sand Plage d'Argent is a lovely place to spend a day – pack a picnic or feast on simple seafood in the beachside restaurant. There are several hotels, simple hostels and holiday apartments, but if money is no object it has to be Le Mas du Langoustier in a remote spot on the west side of the island (open late April until late September) with excellent restaurants.
Porquerolles, France
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Egadi Islands, Italy
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Strewn a few miles off the coast of west Sicily, tranquil bays, isolated mountain paths and a slow pace of life are waiting to be discovered on these three little islands and two islets that lie in a marine reserve. The Egadi, or the Aegadian, might not be as well-known as Sicily's Aeolian Islands, but they're nonethless appealing. Favignana is the largest and most populated, Levanzo the smallest and Marettimo the most remote and wild. Wherever you explore, you can be sure you'll find that all-important laid-back island vibe.
Egadi Islands, Italy
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Egadi Islands, Italy
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Egadi Islands, Italy
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The Egadi, which are accessible by ferry from Trapani on Sicily’s west coast, have a rich tradition of fishing. Once home to a thriving tuna fishing industry, the island of Favignana is still famed for its tuna delicacies. Its elegant old tuna cannery is now a museum (pictured). To fully catch the maritime vibe, hole up in a beautifully restored fisherman's cottage on Marettimo.
Formentera, Spain
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The smallest of the inhabited Balearic Islands, Formentera is known as hedonistic Ibiza's hippy little sister. While its vast stretches of white sand, shallow waters, sand dunes and chilled out chiringuitos (beach bars) make it a popular bolt hole for jaded partygoers in season, it's more than that. Hop on board a ferry at Port d'Eivissa for the 45-minute ride (or zip over in style by water taxi) for a few days and you'll see why.
Formentera, Spain
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The buzzy marina of La Savina is where the ferries arrive and mega-yachts drop their anchors in season. There are lovely places to eat and drink here or follow the smart set to Juan Y Andrea on the gorgeous little Playa de Illetes for lobster paella (only open from lunch to early evening in the summer season). Away from the beaches, Sant Francesc Xavier is well worth a wander for a slice of local life and some excellent places to eat.
Formentera, Spain
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Sunsets are a big deal on Formentera. They're dramatic and beautiful and what many Ibiza day-trippers come here for, preferably with a cocktail or cava in hand. Various chic beach bars and restaurants dot the coast, but the crowds are nothing compared to Ibiza. Island institutions Bluebar Formentera, Kiosko 62 and Tiburon on laid-back Migjorn beach are some of the best chiringuitos for sundowners followed by a twilight swim. Or seek solitude as you watch the sun drop at Es Cap de Barbaria lighthouse on the isle’s far southwestern point.
Bozcaada, Turkey
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Are you in Greece or Turkey? It's hard to tell on this peach of an island in the Aegean, which used to be known as Tenedos. Over the centuries it has been conquered by the Phoenicians, Athenians, Greeks, Persians, Venetians, Genoese, Byzantines and Ottomans. Today, Bozcaada belongs to Turkey and is a favourite weekend escape for people from Istanbul. But, as you'll discover in the ancient island's historic quarter, the Greek heritage remains strong.
Bozcaada, Turkey
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With its white-washed buildings, cobblestone streets, traditional vine-clad taverna and wine shops, Bozcaada's historic harbour is all that you could want from an island getaway. Boats arrive from the mainland towns of Geyikli and Canakkale but it's rarely busy, especially out of high season. Rent a bike to explore and the sparse crowds will slip away altogether as you discover gorgeous but empty beaches and the vineyards unfurling around you.
Bozcaada, Turkey
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Bozcaada has an age-old wine-making tradition with around a third of it covered by vines, including native grape varieties. Corvus is one of the most famous and revered brands. While it's tempting to while away the hours enjoying the local drops in a wine bar, be sure to visit the informative museum to learn about local history – the age-old isle is referenced by Homer as the hiding place for the Greeks’ ships after they left the wooden horse to trick the Trojans. Walkers should head to the 15th-century Bozcaada Castle, looming over the northeast coast, for beautiful views.
Solta, Croatia
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Solta, Croatia
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Solta is scattered with secluded places for bathing with many wild, shingly bays that can only be reached by bike, foot or boat. Spend a day pedalling around to see more of this island, which is mostly known for its olive oil, honey and wines, then cool off in the enticing sparkling waters. Tranquil Zaglav Bay and Tatinja Bay, both walkable from the island’s oldest settlement Grohote, are gems. The stone village is the island's administrative centre and worth a wander to get a sense of traditional life.
Solta, Croatia
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Base yourself in pretty Maslinica on the west coast. Backed by pines, it is Solta's liveliest and most attractive resort. It's also where you'll find the smartest place to stay on the island – the gorgeous Martinis Marchi Heritage Hotel. It's located in a former 18th-century castle and has lovely rooms with soaring Adriatic views. For more down-to-earth but charming accommodation, there are many apartments for hire.
Folegandros, Greece
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Folegandros, Greece
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Folegandros, Greece
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Panagia, an impressive white church overlooking Chora, is where people go to watch the dazzling Aegean sunrise and sunset on Folegandros. Wind your way up the hill along the zig-zag path for a pre-dinner workout and sensational views. Return back to feast on octopus and fava beans or local pasta matsata in one of Chora's delightful tavernas such as Pounta. Then retire for a blissful night's sleep at the charming family-run Anemomilos Boutique Hotel.
Lastovo, Croatia
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Sleepy Lastovo is a world apart from some of Croatia's popular islands. Craggy, wooded and far-flung, it was closed to the public for 50 years as a Yugoslav military base which explains why it's so unspoiled. Today, it has a small population, which swells slightly with visitors in summer. There's not a great deal to occupy you other than sailing around its isles and inlets, following walking trails or mooching about the sleepy towns. But that makes it ideal if you're looking to escape the Med’s crowds.
Lastovo, Croatia
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The under-the-radar Lastovo archipelago is serviced by catamaran (three hours) and car ferry (four-and-a-quarter hours) from Split. Once you arrive in the port at Ubli, you can relax knowing that you're in for a week of unhurried life. You can charter a boat to sail around its 46 small islands or go diving and take a walk around its vineyards and pine forests. Matching the number of its uninhabited islets, Lastovo also has 46 fine little churches that are dotted around the sparsely populated isle.
Lastovo, Croatia
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Take a wander around the villages – apart from Ubli there are Zaklopatica and the island's namesake Lastovo. The latter is slightly inland, with stone houses clinging to a hill, and you'll find a clutch of traditional restaurants there. Look out for the striking chimneys – it was traditional for families to have their own unique design in the 17th and 18th centuries. Stay at the aptly named Hotel Solitudo – the island’s only hotel which is surrounded by pine woods and wonderfully wild beaches. Feast on Dalmatian-style spiny lobster at Porto Rosso on Skrivena Luka, also known as Hidden Bay, on the southern coast.
Kastellorizo, Greece
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Kastellorizo, Greece
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Kastellorizo, Greece
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Other island musts are hiking to the ruins of a crumbling Crusader castle and a boat trip to see the Blue Cave on the isle’s southeast coast. The cathedral-like sea cave has stalactites and startlingly blue water. If you're feeling energetic, you can catch a boat over to Kas which lies just three miles (4.8km) over the strait on the Turkish coast for the day. Book a room at the lovely little Caretta Pension, set just back from the quayside, or chic boutique hotel Mediterraneo Kastelorizo which has harbour views.
The Maddalena archipelago, Italy
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Strewn between Sardinia and Corsica, the seven rugged and wooded islands and 55 tiny isolotti of La Maddalena Archipelago National Park are quite simply heavenly. All white sands, craggy coves and grappa-clear calm water, they are a beach lover’s dream destination. Bar the yachting set who sail from Costa Smeralda to flit between their idyllic empty bays, very few people have discovered their pleasures.
The Maddalena archipelago, Italy
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If you don’t have a yacht to hand, the islands are a quick 20-minute ferry ride from Palau in Sardinia to La Maddalena, the main island. Its attractive historic port is surprisingly lively and a charming place to wander with enticing bars, restaurants and markets. But the main draw of this archipelago are its undeveloped sandy beaches, turquoise lagoons (like the Porto della Madonna, pictured, located between the islands of Santa Maria, Razzoli and Budelli) and wooded inlets that shelter secret swimming spots – lap them up by heading out on a boat tour.
The Maddalena archipelago, Italy
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The archipelago is perfect for lounging on gloriously empty crescents of white sand and snorkelling in utter seclusion in craggy coves. Spargi is a wonderfully wild little isle with herb-scented hiking trails that lead to tiny bays and the remains of old fortifications. Divers can also duck down to see old shipwrecks, including the skeleton of a Roman cargo ship. Stay on La Maddalena island: Grand Hotel Resort and Spa Ma&Ma in Punta Tegge on the southern coast is the smartest stay on the isles.
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