Explore Perth, Scotland: top things to do, where to stay and what to eat

Scotland’s first capital – where its monarchs were crowned and parliament sat – is brimming with confidence ten years on from regaining city status in 2012. And it's far more than the "Gateway to the Highlands". Join savvy Scots in enjoying this graceful, compact city on the mighty River Tay, with its parks, bountiful local produce and flurry of cultural attractions fit for royalty. And beavers – yes, beavers.

Many visitors to Scotland whizz north on the A9 in search of the Highlands, totally bypassing Perth. That is a serious mistake. The capital of Perthshire is walkable, approachable and eminently green, its core flanked to the north and south by two great public parks. Perth is known as the ‘Fair City’; and in fact it may just be Scotland’s most underrated. 

Scotland’s monarchs were once crowned at Scone Palace, on the outskirts of the city, and such was Perth’s importance in the 15th century that King James I had the Scottish parliament meet regularly here. Indeed Perth might have gone on to be what Edinburgh is today. But that dream ended one fateful night in 1437 when King James I was murdered in the sacred grounds of Blackfriars Monastery, taking the royal shine off Perth. 

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Perth’s importance continued as it emerged as a major trading port, with vessels from all over Europe working their way up the River Tay to trade in the shadows of the Viking longships that once harassed the city. Today that mercantile wealth’s legacy is a flurry of grand churches, a rich web of Georgian buildings and elegant cobbled streets. Walk across to the east bank of the Tay and the skyline is an impressive one.

In the 20th century, Perth suffered the ignominy of being downgraded to a town – though that was all forgotten when city status was restored in 2012. Today Perth is proud of that status, and also of becoming part of the Cittaslow movement in 2007, which puts quality of life before development. It's nicknamed ‘Scotland’s largest village’ for its compact core and the warm welcome extended to visitors too.

Take in the River Tay 

Without Scotland’s longest river, the River Tay, there would simply be no city of Perth: it’s that integral to its development and story. The west bank has been spruced up in recent years with benches and information boards – learn about visitors as eclectic as the Vikings and myriad Baltic traders. During Perth’s golden age the quayside here bustled with whisky (of course), textiles, beer and fish being spirited away downriver, with rich Spanish silk and French claret pouring into Perth in return.  

The scenic Norie-Miller Walk, along the banks of the River Tay, is made even more impressive by the public art trail that merges culture and nature seamlessly into one experience. Camera phone at the ready folks – whatever your generation, this is selfie-worthy stuff. Featuring sculptures from artists including Tim Shutter, Paul Eugene Riley, Kenny Munro and Doug Cocker, the art trail is themed around the city's most significant achievements.

Meet the beavers

The news about the city beavers was reported globally, but it was not such a surprise in Perthshire, as there have long been colonies on other parts of the River Tay. But it was only in 2021 that sources confirmed they had settled in Perth – the first city beavers in the UK for four centuries. The real city slicker beavers lie to the north of the centre. If you want the best chance of viewing them head for the upper reaches of North Inch, where they weave their dams. Sunrise and sunset are the best times to look out for our cute, furry friends. 

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To really get a feel for the river and its beavers hook up with Piotr from Outdoor Explore. He runs kayaking trips from Perth Sailing Club in search of the ‘Big Five Wildlife of Perth City’. These are otters, kingfishers, seals, the mighty osprey and those beavers. You can get close to the beaver habitat and dams on the kayak tours. You also ease right into the centre of Perth in the boatsteps of the traders who once enriched the city. 

Date with destiny at Scone Palace 

It's no exaggeration to say that this is Scotland’s pivotal palace, very much at the heart of Scottish history. This grand edifice towers over a stretch of the River Tay just to the northeast of the city, today gleaming in all its Georgian glory. Even without its famous Stone of Destiny it’s well worth visiting for rooms alive with period charm, fine porcelain, portrait paintings and elegant French furniture. There's a café too with local produce and homebaking. The grounds spread across a vast area – wander the trails, spot the roaming peacocks and let the kids loose in the maze too. 

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Scone Palace is, of course, synonymous with one thing. For centuries Scotland’s monarchs were crowned on the legendary Stone of Destiny at Scone. The stone was used to crown the first ever king of a united Scotland in 843, Kenneth MacAlpin. In 1296 Edward I stole it and it spent centuries at Westminster Abbey before being spirited back by Scottish students in 1950. Its current home is Edinburgh Castle, though it will return south for the coronation of King Charles III. This is fitting as it was used to crown his mother Queen Elizabeth II in 1953. Plans are afoot to relocate the stone to the revamped Perth City Hall when it reopens in 2024. Today at Scone you can see the mound where myriad Scottish monarchs were crowned on Moot Hill. 

Enjoy the parklife 

It’s easy to see why Perth is a "Champion of Champions" in the Britain in Bloom competition. It's a city on a human scale where colourful flora bursts from parks, streets and buildings. The two real highlights are the North and South Inch parks. Perth legend has it that King James II was so frustrated by his men enjoying a spot of golf in Perth that he banned the sport of golf being played in any of the city’s parks. He reckoned it was distracting them from more serious pursuits, such as sword swinging and archery. Today the parks are alive with statues, benches, sports pitches and walkways – you will want to linger. 

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While the locals love their two Inch parks, their weekend getaway is a hill visitors marvel at but rarely get to savour. Kinnoull Hill (pictured above), the city’s favourite weekend escape, hangs at 728 feet (222m) above Perth. You can walk there from the centre and you must. A network of trails sneak up through the wooded slopes, helping hide the views you are about to drink in. When you get up to the top it’s breathtaking. The city unfurls below with its cobalt blue river running through. You’ll also see an expanse of Perthshire countryside and appreciate just why the region is known as "Big Tree Country" with swathes of forest breaking out all around. 

History is writ large on the solid, stone streets of Perth. Walk by the Tay and you're walking in the footsteps not only of Scottish monarchs, but also John Knox, Bonnie Prince Charlie, Highlands clans and famous British regiments. The arts also shine in Perth, with festivals and concert halls providing highbrow cultural experiences, while live music sessions in the city’s pubs offer more traditional musical entertainment. 

St John’s Kirk

This remarkable religious edifice is Perth's oldest church, standing on the site of a sacred building that dated to the 1100s. Such is its influence, it lends the city the nickname of "St John’s Town", with St Johnstone the local football team. The most famous sermon ever conducted here was by firebrand Protestant reformer John Knox in 1559. His supporters went on to destroy all four city monasteries and 40 altars to the saints in this kirk. Undeterred, St John’s Kirk spire has dominated Perth’s skyline for half a millennia. Much of what you see today is thanks to later restorations. 

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Perth Museum and Art Gallery

A real cultural powerhouse, Perth Museum and Art Gallery enjoys a dramatic neoclassical home in the Marshall Monument, designed by David Morison and sculpted by John Cochrane and Brothers to echo Rome’s Pantheon in the 1820s. 

It's a voluminous space, whose rich permanent collection sweeps from Pictish stones and fallen Strathmore meteorites to Egyptian mummies. A highlight is Georgina Ballantine’s salmon, a 64lb (29kg) whopper caught on the Tay in 1922. You'll also discover more about Perth’s story in their New Beginnings Gallery, exploring the natural history of the area. There are myriad temporary exhibits, many with city or Perthshire themes, such as work exploring gender identity from Perth High School. Handily there's a coffee cart in the foyer laden with cakes and traybakes too. 

Perth Concert Hall

This really is a special hub – a striking glass and copper venue that's the fulcrum of the annual Perth Arts Festival. It’s all here: film, theatre, opera, classical music, comedy, dance, West End musicals and a series of talks in a venue that's the dictionary definition of eclectic. A highlight is the BBC Scottish Symphony Orchestra, the Royal Scottish National Orchestra and the Scottish Chamber Orchestra, who all appear in the annual Perth Concerts Series along with a host of musical talents from around the world. 

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The Fergusson Gallery

Another spectacularly housed cultural attraction, you’ll find the Fergusson Gallery in an old circular cast-iron waterworks just back from the River Tay. There are a trio of galleries that house the works of John Duncan Fergusson, the celebrated Scottish Colourist. He was no mere local painter, rated as one of the most influential British artists of the first half of the 20th century. His most famous works were when he was part of the Scottish Colourist group – explore his output and get an insight into the man himself through his archives. Some people see the influence of Matisse in his work – not surprising as he spent a lot of time in France. Don’t miss the sections on his wife – the pioneering modern dancer Margaret Morris. Her archives lie here too. 

READ MORE: 8 reasons to visit Perth, Scotland's newest old city

Black Watch Museum

You don’t need to be a gung-ho fan of military museums to enjoy this captivating venue. Yes there are guns, uniforms and pageantry, but the museum also delves into the social and historic fabric of Perthshire and Scotland. This testament to the oldest Scottish regiment is controversial too. This Black Watch were formed in the early decades of a united Britain when the Jacobite threat still loomed large, especially in Scotland. The regiment was founded in 1739 with a key role of quelling Jacobite resistance in the country. The regiment went on to serve in myriad conflicts around the world and this museum takes a deep dive.

The Mercure Perth is a truly unique hotel that's woven around a 15th-century watermill. The reception sets the tone – wander in and the first thing you hear is gushing water. You'll also see it running right under reception as part of the city’s old lade water system. There's also a well-stocked bar, a brasserie serving excellent Scottish produce and a great breakfast that sets you up for a day pounding Perth’s stone streets. Rooms are spacious and comfortable too – bright and airy after the darker historic world of the water mills as you enter. If you've come to Perth to taste history and delve through the centuries stay here. You might even meet the resident ghost: the Green Lady. 

Elegant, welcoming and homely, Parklands sits (as it sounds) just above Perth’s North Inch Park. This award-winning 4-star boutique hotel is a Georgian dame so grand the city’s Lord Provost used to live here. There are only 15 bedrooms so it feels like a quiet retreat from the city just below. The sandstone Georgian grandeur pervades – think big windows and high ceilings. But they bring things up to date with eco-friendly toiletries and plush Egyptian cotton bedding. 

 

 

 

 

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If you’re arriving by train, the Radisson Blu Perth could not be handier as it’s right next to the station. This vaulting old stone building harks back to the great days of the classic railway hotels and is home to 75 rooms and suites. Each has a Nespresso machine and a modern minimalist feel that's softened with photos and paintings of Perth. On a sunny day, recline with a local ale in the hotel's beer garden. Unusually for Perth, they have dedicated family rooms that sleep four too.  

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The best out-of-city option – and handy for Scone Palace – is undoubtedly Murrayshall. Already revered by golfers for its fabulous courses on the hillside above Perth, the hotel has had its public areas and rooms reborn as it moves upmarket to pitch for the type of guest who stays at Perthshire’s most famous hotel – Gleneagles. Murrayshall is much cheaper than its illustrious cousin and is a fabulous place to stay today with a choice of places to eat, a network of local walks, views and, yes, golf. 

Perth was named ‘Scotland’s Food Town’ by the Scottish Food Awards in 2018 and it’s fitting that the country’s first farmers’ market was held here. Perthshire’s produce is legendary – especially its soft fruits and red meats (the beef and lamb are superb), alongside world-class game. Then there's the salmon and trout. In short – Perthshire is a foodie paradise. Perth isn’t about overly fancy fine dining or Michelin stars; it's more about honest, great value restaurants that let the produce speak for itself. 

The most famous name in the city is Graeme Pallister, a local boy made good who has run his magical 63 Tay Street on the banks of the River Tay since 2007, as well as helping curate menus in the eateries at the Parklands Hotel. The five-course tasting menu is a brilliant introduction to Perth’s ultra-local cuisine, with the likes of Perthshire pigeon and vegetables culled from Pallister’s allotment on an island in the river just outside. Expect superb matching wines too. 

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A more recent arrival that offers excellent dining and local produce is family-run North Port Restaurant – enjoy dishes such as Highland partridge and Black Isle beef steaks. Other restaurants worthy of note include Café Tabou, with its shellfish platters and daily specials including squat lobster and fresh mussels. Sit outside here and you’re peering up at St John’s Kirk.

A sprinkling of cafés, bars and restaurants tempt in this area, which has been branded the Café Quarter. Another highlight is Hinterland. As well as top notch coffee crafted by expert baristas – they blend arabica with robusta beans – this hipster haunt serves up fresh homebaking and does light lunch too. 

 

 

 

 

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Like all Scottish cities, Perth offers a range of welcoming pubs. The oldest of them all is the The Old Ship Inn, which dates back to 1665. It’s a characterful place for a pint and a wee dram of whisky right in the centre and it attracts a slightly older crowd, making it a great weekend option. It has a rival, though, for being Perth’s most historic pub. That honour may go to the family-run King James, which is built on the site of the Blackfriars Dominican Friary, where King James I was assassinated in 1437.  Peer through the glass floor and you can still see the foundation stones. If you want a historic meal how about the King James steak pie? Pub grub is very popular in Perth – look out for the standard hearty burgers and fish and chips, or the more quintessentially Scottish haggis, neeps (swedes) and tatties (potatoes).  

READ MORE: The most amazing castles in Scotland you can actually visit

Day 1

Check-in to:  Mercure Perth. Delve straight into historic Perth with that watermill running right through reception. You're in the heart of the city here with reception staff only too happy to help with sightseeing and restaurant recommendations. 

Get to know the city with: a walk through the centre. Perth’s core is a flat gem, so kick off your walk in South Inch Park, head up the Tay to North Inch (pictured), before easing back through the centre spotting the sights recommended above as you go. 

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Have a coffee break at: Perth Museum and Art Gallery. Drink in the art and culture all around, then relax with some proper coffee and a cake from their coffee cart.  

Discover St John’s Town at: St John’s Kirk. This is very much the heart of Perth. The kirk has withstood the ravages of time and somehow survived the devastating Reformation. It’s beloved by locals and has even earned Perth the nickname ‘St John’s Town’. If anything, it's even more impressive inside than out. 

Savour Modern Scottish cooking at: 63 Tay Street. You won’t forget Graeme Pallister’s local-produce driven cooking in a hurry. Kick off early at 6pm to allow a couple of hours to savour the five course ‘Just feed us Graeme’ surprise menu. Matching wines poured by debonair restaurant manager Christopher Strachan are a must. 

Dig into ghostly Perth with a: History and Horror Tour of Perth. The frankly scary-looking black-clad Gary Knight meets you late at night for a tour that spooks you through Perth’s murderous, tumultuous history and merges fact with a delicious dollop of local legend. Unique and unforgettable.

Day 2 

Start the day at: North Inch Park. Join the locals exploring this great green lung, which used to be an island in the Tay. Check out the statue of Prince Albert, unveiled by Queen Victoria in 1864. Continue north and look out for the city’s famous beavers. If they’re not around you’ll still be able to make out their handywork.  

A walking lunch with: Perth Food Tours. This brilliant tour opens up foodie Perth as you ease around a smorgasbord of restaurants, hotels, bars and shops with an expert local guide, learning about the city’s rich gourmet scene and digging into plenty of dishes too.

 

 

 

 

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Bathe in culture at: The Fergusson Gallery. Savour the works of John Duncan Fergusson, the celebrated Scottish Colourist who echoes the style of Matisse. His striking art stars alongside the archives that reveal more about the man.

Have dinner out at: Café Tabou. Enjoy the views out to St John’s Kirk as you tuck into a Perthshire beef steak or a shellfish platter to share. The cosy interior tempts if it’s too chilly on the terrace – but they do have heaters. 

Day 3 

Paddle on the Tay with: Outdoor Explore. A paddle up the Tay on a kayak is a brilliant way to really understand Perth’s history and how its location on the Tay was paramount. There's a good chance of seeing those local beavers en route too. 

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Enjoy a lazy lunch at: King James. End your trip with a hearty meal and a drink at one of Perth's oldest pubs.

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Lead image: Iain Masterton/Alamy