Mercilessly whipped by the Atlantic, the Pembrokeshire coast is a triumph of nature, with crazily gouged cliffs, rock stacks, caves, wild headlands and smugglers’ coves. The only way to really see it is by heading through kissing gates and over stiles on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path.
Sections
Why go
When it comes to coastal walking in Wales, the Pembrokeshire Coast Path has the edge. Reaching 186 miles (299km) from St Dogmaels in the north to Amroth in the south (or vice versa), the trail is the showpiece of the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, which celebrates its 70th anniversary in 2022. But don’t expect an easy stroll: the path is full of ups and downs, with 35,000 foot (10,668m) of ascent and descent.
Who knows what moments will grab you. There are castaway bays where the sea rages against rock formations which have been whittled into form since dinosaurs walked the Earth. There are puffin-filled islands to explore, forlorn headlands that nod to prehistory with standing stones and Iron Age hill forts, hallowed places of early Christian pilgrimage and mellow coastal villages serving boat-fresh seafood. Whether you come for a day or two weeks, you won't forget this walk in a hurry.
Five highlights of the Pembrokshire Coast Path
1. St Davids
On paper it’s Britain’s smallest city (population: 1,600) but in spirit, St Davids is the heart of Wales. It’s the birthplace of the nation’s patron saint, born on the nearby cliffs of St Non’s in AD 500. Come – as blister-footed pilgrims have for centuries – to see its medieval cathedral, on the spot where St David founded his monastery in the 6th century, and its evocatively ruined Bishop’s Palace.
Just a whisper away from the sea, this cultured town is full of enticing galleries, cafés and restaurants. For more of an insight into the coast, hook onto a foraging walk with Wild About Pembrokeshire or go coasteering with eco-aware TYF.
2. Strumble Head
On wild, windy days, you feel the full brunt of the Atlantic at Strumble Head, where gorse-clad cliffs punch high above the pounding surf. It’s only a few miles (around 5km) from Fishguard, but this lonely headland has an edge-of-the-world quality.
Blinking away since 1908, its lighthouse has stopped many a ship from being wrecked in the seas between here and Ireland. The promontory is an uplifting place to unpack your picnic and grab binoculars to watch migratory birds (from Arctic skuas to sooty shearwaters and storm petrels) wheel overhead. If you're lucky you might spot seals and dolphins too.
READ MORE: Exploring the Wales Coast Path
3. Barafundle Bay
There’s hot competition for the best beach in Pembrokeshire but Barafundle Bay is special. Anticipation mounts on the short-but-sweet trudge up and over grassy cliffs, with exhilarating views reaching all the way to North Devon on clear days. Then you see the beach far below: a gorgeous scoop of blonde sand easing into a sea of pure turquoise.
Race down the steep flight of steps and you will find your lucky self on one of Britain’s loveliest bays, backed by dunes and pines. It feels isolated but is actually just half a mile (0.8km) from the car park in Stackpole Quay.
4. Dinas Island
Although it's known as Dinas Island, this is really just a little thumbprint of a headland between Fishguard and Newport. It can be easily overlooked on a map, but Dinas holds walkers in its thrall on its three-mile (5km) loop walk. Starting on Pwllgwaelod Beach, you’ll clamber over cliffs draped in gorse and heather, which dive down to smugglers’ coves. Keep an eye out for dolphins and porpoises splashing offshore as you push on to the highest point, Pen-y-Fan, with views west to Newport. From late spring onwards, you might spot puffins at Needle Rock.
Then, it’s on to the romantic ruins of Cwm-yr-Eglwys chapel, destroyed by a 19th-century storm, before returning to Pwllgwaelod for a crab sandwich and a pint at The Old Sailors.
5. Skomer
Granted it isn’t on the coast path, but you should definitely squeeze Skomer into your trip. From April to September, a little blue boat sets off from Martin’s Haven across choppy waters to this rocky island, where cliffs sheer above the thrashing Atlantic. In summer, the island is a mass of wildflowers: pink thrift and white sea campion.
But your attention will be focused elsewhere. Puffins! So many puffins! With around 6,000 breeding pairs nesting in burrows here, this is one of Britain’s best places to get breathtakingly close to these comical birds. Skomer is also home to 300,000 pairs of Manx shearwaters (half the world’s population). Stay overnight and you’ll hear their ghostly cries.
READ MORE: Top reasons to love Wales
Best Pembrokeshire Coast Path day hikes
1. St Dogmaels to Newport (15.5 miles/25km)
There’s something satisfying about walking the first (or last) leg of the coast path. Starting in St Dogmaels, where the Teifi River flows past a ruined medieval abbey out to sea, you’ll take in dune-wrapped Poppit Sands before swinging round Cemaes Head, where you can spot the fluffy white pups of Atlantic grey seals from September to November.
Heading south along the cliffs you’ll reach the midway point at Moylgrove and its wave-smashed Witches' Cauldron (Pwll Y Wrach), a collapsed cave filled with dazzling green water. The trail south is little-hiked and spectacular, with folds and faults in the cliffs, and views south to Dinas Island and lighthouse-topped Strumble Head. This is a long, tough day, with more than 3,000 foot (915m) of ascent. If you prefer, stretch it into two days and stay overnight in Moylgrove.
2. Dale to Martin’s Haven (10.5 miles/17km)
Come out of peak season and you’ll often walk alone on this wondrously wild stretch of the coast path, which weaves around St Ann’s Head and its out-on-a-limb lighthouse. The walk begins in the quiet fishing village of Dale then heads past Dale Fort before ticking off some of the most ravishing beaches in Wales.
You’ll be tempted to linger at Watwick Bay, a perfect cliff-wrapped crescent of sand, and more rugged Mill Bay, where Henry Tudor landed his army in 1485 en route to the Battle of Bosworth. You’ll pass dramatically buckled and contorted red sandstone cliffs as you push on to lovely Marloes Sands (a mile/1.6km-long at low tide) and coves like Deadman’s Bay (so named for the treacherous, ship-wrecking waters between here and Skomer).
READ MORE: The ultimate Pembrokeshire road trip
3. Freshwater West to Broad Haven South (17.8 miles/28.6km)
Surf-hammered Freshwater West is life-affirming on bright days at low tide when it glimmers with rock pools. The coast path dips south of this mile/1.6km-long beach to the coastal promontory fort at Linney Head, where you might spot pupping seals below the limestone cliffs in autumn.
From here, the drama notches up as you reach one of the wildest, most exposed legs of the coast path, taking in blowholes, collapsed sea caves and pillars and rock formations like the Green Bridge (pictured below) and Elegug Stacks. Hiking east of here brings you to a necklace of nicely secluded coves like Bullslaughter Bay, but this is MOD land so check the firing times.
Then, it’s on to St Govan’s Chapel, a tiny hermit’s cell notched into the cliffs, and wide Broad Haven South, with caves and dunes to explore and Church Rock flinging up out of the sea. Behind the beach is Bosherston, whose lily ponds are like a Monet in June and July.
4. Freshwater East to Lydstep (9.3 miles/15km)
On cloudless days you can see Devon hovering across the Bristol Channel on this beautiful stretch of the coast path. Start at Freshwater East, where 18th-century smugglers stashed their booty in the ancient red sandstone cliffs. The protected dunes here flicker with glowworms at dusk in summer.
The path then picks its way east to secluded Swanlake Bay (as poetic as its name sounds) and neighbouring Manorbier, with a fine Norman castle above its surf-smashed beach. As you round the cape above the bay called Priest’s Nose, you’ll notice the King’s Quoit, a Neolithic burial chamber. Cliffs razor down steeply to inlets as you stride on to the fabulously wild twin coves of Skrinkle Haven (pictured below) and Church Doors, with their great arches, caves and chiselled cliffs. Wind up on the wildflower-flecked cliffs of Lydstep, home to fulmars, choughs and gulls.
5. Solva to St Davids (6 miles/9.6km)
For a taste of all the coast path offers, this easy-going half-day hike is a winner. You’ll start in Solva, a pastel-painted village tucked into a deep, hook-shaped harbour. The path wends west over cliffs, passing sea arches, ragged rocks and lush carpets of gorse.
Stop at the pebbly cove of Caer Bwdy, source of the purple stone that built St Davids Cathedral, and neighbouring Caerfai, whose smooth sands and rock pools are a low-tide delight. From here there are uplifting views across St Brides Bay to the islands of Skomer and Skokholm. Before you hit St Davids, pause like many a good pilgrim has to see the dreamily perched ruins of St Nons Chapel, birthplace of St David, and its holy well.
READ MORE: What to do in the Elan Valley
Where to stay
Lamphey Court
Just north of Freshwater East, this Georgian mansion offers a slice of style and a spa where you can pummel aching feet after hiking the coast path. The sublime grounds hide the vast ruins of a medieval bishop’s palace – once the beloved retreat of bishops escaping their duties in St Davids.
Llys Meddyg
In the pretty coastal town of Newport, this Grade II-listed coaching inn has been given a sophisticated makeover, with art-slung rooms and a moody palette of colours. The restaurant is one of the region’s best, with its own smokery and locally foraged ingredients starring in dishes like gurnard fish with buttermilk and sea vegetables.
Manor Town House
You’ll receive a heartfelt welcome at this cornflower-blue Georgian townhouse that’s a beautiful mix of period features, soothing colours and contemporary design. Plump for a sea-view room to gaze out across Fishguard Bay, or head down to the garden terrace. Lovingly made breakfasts with local produce and homemade treats fuel a day walking on the nearby coast path.
READ MORE: Unique places to stay in Wales
Where to eat
Stackpole Inn: If only all country inns were like this… With Barafundle Bay on the doorstep, the Stackpole Inn could get away with being mediocre, but instead it’s an ivy-swathed, timber-beamed dream. Chef Matt Waldron lets locally farmed and fished ingredients shine in dishes like whole sea bream with cockles, capers and crispy polenta chips. It also does a great 'Walker’s Lunch' (think Welsh cheeses or ham with salad, bread, chutney and more) for a tenner.
Lobster & MôR: Tucked down a back lane in the cute fishing village of Little Haven, this deli/craft shop/fishmonger is a terrific place to stock up on local shellfish or grab a coffee and crab sandwich to take to the nearest beach.
Really Wild Emporium: Foragers Julia and John have brought their wild food concept to a stylishly revamped Art Deco building in the heart of St Davids. Pop in for a divine seaweed brownie or lunch specials like creamy leek and blue cheese linguine with sugar kelp.
Need to know
London Paddington has frequent trains to Haverfordwest and Fishguard (one stop, 4.5 hours). Coastal buses are great if you’re planning a one-way hike; see timetables and route maps online. Visit Pembrokeshire is an excellent resource for planning a trip, and Cywain gives the inside scoop on the region’s food, drink and producers.
Main image: Parkerspics/Shutterstock