48 hours in marvellous Margate
Think this British seaside town is all slots and sand? Well these days you can get your culture on as well as soaking up the sun, with a weekend to remember. Think art, artisan coffee and... caves!
Long before the advent of the high-speed train link from London, the golden sands of Margate have drawn daytrippers who can happily while away the hours on the beach without venturing beyond the seafront. But the diminutive bay and slot-machine-flanked seafront hides much more creativity and delectability in the streets behind.
The Turner Contemporary Gallery – now celebrating its 10-year anniversary – well and truly put Margate on the map as a destination for art lovers. Its presence (not to mention the cheaper rents) attracted a steady stream of artists and creatives of many stripes to the area which has now led to the emergence of a plethora of galleries and creative spaces. This has, of course, brought a few baristas and pop-up restauranteurs along, too. See for yourself by spending a weekend in this wonderful coastal town.
Diana Jarvis
Friday
Check-in: to Margate Suites. Right opposite the main sands these apartments are all you need to feel home from home; they’re sumptuously decorated and each includes a fully equipped kitchen. The Pearl and Samphire suites are simpler in style but have the best vantage point in town with balconies that overlook the beach – ideal for those famous sunsets.
While the Courtyard suite at the back has two rooms that are each stylishly decorated by local (though to be fair ‘locals’ in this town can mean ‘pretty successfully made an international career already’) interior designers. What they may lack in sunset views, they more than make up for in colour, vibe and texture.
Diana Jarvis
Take a stroll: to the end of the harbour arm to the lighthouse and the Shell Lady, aka Mrs Booth. When JMW Turner (one of the greatest British artists) was in town, he stayed at Mrs Booth’s boarding house at a spot that was roughly where the gallery that bears his name is now. Sophia Booth wasn’t just his landlady; she was also his patron, lover and often un-sung champion of his work. Stop for a quick pint at the Harbour Arms, a tiny pub with one or two local brews on tap.
Diana Jarvis
Dine at: Ambrette. Highly lauded as one of the best places around for a curry, to call Ambrette a curry house does it a massive disservice. Chef Dev Biswal takes traditional Indian methods of cooking, mixes them with an array of ideas from other global cuisines and applies them to locally grown and sourced produce.
Behold the Goan-style slow-cooked pork belly; grilled wood pigeon with rosemary and cinnamon poached peach and a mango and red onion salad; tandoori prawns with pickled samphire, and there’s plenty of innovative ideas for vegetarians and vegans too, including: south Indian Dosai, and; butternut squash stuffed with mushroom risotto and cumin-spiced spinach and potatoes. The dessert menu, too, isn’t short of innovation: chocolate samosa, anyone?
Ambrette Restaurant/Twitter
Drink at: Xylo. A relative newcomer to Margate seafront but nonetheless thriving, despite the pandemic lockdowns, this is a proper beer bar for those who like to savour the taste rather than just get hammered. Want to taste the difference between a piney west coast-style IPA and a citrus-y pale ale? Here’s the place to learn. It has a number of beers brewed on site as well as revolving selection of guest beers and ciders and usually something from Margate’s one Northdown Brewery. If beer’s not your thing, it also stocks a range of local Kent wines and spirits.
For one more tipple before bed, try Little Swift which serves an array of wines and spirits and has plenty of outdoor seating.
READ MORE: Our full guide to Kent
Saturday
Brunch at: Storeroom. With their own coffee roasted on site and a selection of brunch options ranging from the healthy to the downright glutinous (cheese toasty), there’s something for all tastes. If you need a bit more of a sugar hit, head over the road to Modern Provider, whose cinnamon buns are the best in town.
Explore: the Turner Contemporary. Unmistakably recognisable and perched on the delightfully named Rendezvous, the Turner Contemporary is a love-it-or-hate-it example of modern architecture that glows and reflects the late afternoon light.
Diana Jarvis
Inside, you won’t find a love letter to JMW Turner himself, however; the emphasis is very much focussed on the ‘contemporary’ part of this gallery’s name. The light and airy space houses international-grade exhibitions that often pair contemporary artists and globally important themes with something more local.
Making art accessible is one of the core principles of the Turner which means it’s free to visit (though currently you need to book your time slot in advance) and there are also a number of digital artworks to explore that can be experienced in your own home. The shop sells a range of artworks by artists who now call Margate home, plus there’s a café run by the town’s famous ‘moveable restaurant’ Barletta.
READ MORE: Museums and galleries you can visit from home
Explore: the old town. Among the cobbles and mishmashed architecture of centuries past you’ll find some thoroughly modern shops like Little Bit, selling colourful gifts and The Margate Bookshop whose proprietor Francesca has a wealth of recommendations to share. There’s also a handful of vintage stores; head to Peony Vintage for gorgeous women’s dresses and outfits, and the King’s Emporium on King Street for a rummage through knick-knacks from a bygone era.
Diana Jarvis
Lunch at: Peter’s Fish Factory. It wouldn’t a trip to the seaside without at least one dinner of fish and chips but, seeing as the tastiest option in town, Peter’s Fish Factory, is so popular (a summer’s evening will see the queue snaking around the corner) you’re better off having it for lunch. Half the price and double the flavour of anything else you can get nearby and a bonus pea fritter to go with it.
If you’re after something a little lighter, Master Foody Moody's in the Old Kent Market makes the best sweet potato pakora wrap. The food here is so flavoursome it might even have the most hardened meat eater pondering veganism. Be sure to try the Ricey Feisty Fritata, too.
Master Foody Moody's/Facebook
Go underground: The Shell Grotto is well established as Margate’s quirky underground folly of choice for many a visitor – and it’s certainly worth a visit to see the curious shell-lined walls with purported mysterious origins – but a relative newcomer is the Margate Caves. It’s definitely the coolest place in town (a reliable 11°C/52°F year round) and knowledgeable guides will tell you all about its origins as a chalk mine to its other uses as a late-night banqueting hall, while you take in the rather more ‘naive’ art adorning the walls.
Diana Jarvis
Explore: Northdown Road. Turn left on leaving the caves and you’ll hit this central strip. You could be forgiven for thinking you’re further off the beaten track than you’d intended but stick with it. Among the corner shops and betting shops you’ll find a curious mix of establishments that belie the creative community that have been gently colonising the town.
There’s chi chi Lost Property which stocks upcycled and vintage furniture across two emporiums; KG Winters green grocer for artisan versions of store cupboard essentials and eco homewares and, if you’re still hungry, their Korean Jiang Jiang bowls are highly recommended.
It’s worth the walk because you’ll surely deserve something naughty from Bachelors Patisserie and the best of the town’s coffee shops Skinny Dip Coffee is over the road. Be sure to try one of its colourful lattes (pictured).
Diana Jarvis
From Northdown Road: walk towards the sea to find some of the quieter stretches of beach. You can head east towards the chalky cliffs of Walpole Bay, Palm Bay and on towards Botany Bay. If you time it right, you can swim in the tidal pool at Walpole Bay. It’s a year-round pursuit as far as many of the locals are concerned though you may need a wetsuit in winter months.
Diana Jarvis
Drop in on Hera opposite the old Lido on Ethelbert Terrace on your way back into town. It sells art, ceramics and jewellery made by creatives, who live locally, as well as eco gifts and homeware.
Dine out: at New Street Bistro. Currently all tables are in the delightful alfresco courtyard opposite the main dining room and covered awnings protect you from the elements should rain appear. Owner and head chef Tomas Eriksson and his son Rio originally hail from Sweden, and there's a definite Swedish twist to the menu – particularly the seafood. Think Beetroot Cured Sea Trout, Smoked Cod's Roe Creme Fraiche and Dill Pickles.
Listen to music at: Elsewhere. Both a record shop and music venue, Elsewhere has, thankfully, weathered the pandemic and come out the other side. Currently hosting small, intimate, sit-down only live music and DJ sessions in the upstairs area, it can also accommodate slightly bigger audiences in the downstairs area once restrictions are lifted. The genre span is pretty diverse and the bill will often include local musicians with more well-known touring acts.
Rosslyn Court offers their folk-infused gigs free via YouTube, but there are a very small number of in-person tickets for the sessions.
There can be no finer way to round of a day at the beach than a cocktail with a live music soundtrack as the sun goes down and The Sun Deck is the perfect place for that. On a sunny day, sat on the wooden decking, mojito in hand, you could be forgiven for thinking you’re somewhere much more far flung.
Diana Jarvis
Late-night drinks: at Bar Nothing. Anything goes here: cocktails, board games, impromptu live music, billiards and the most theatrical outfits in town. For both a late-night cocktail or a morning-after-the-night-before drink, WILDES is brand new to Margate this summer and offers old classics as well as house specialities.
READ MORE: The best spots to visit on the Kent coast
Sunday
Brunch at: The Bus Café. This multi award-winning café is, you’ve guessed it, housed in an old red double decker and occupies a scenic vantage point overlooking the sea. The menu nicely mixes the lardier bits of a breakfast (sausage, egg, bacon in bagels) with healthier and innovative flavours (smoky re-fried beans, homegrown salsa verde, tamari mushrooms, toasted seeds) and their signature mumbled eggs. Vegetarian and vegan options are available too.
Explore the smaller art galleries: The Turner may have led the way and not only has it drawn many an artist to settle in the town, but curators and gallerists, too, have been quietly making Margate their home. When London commercial gallery owner Carl Freedman Gallery began to see how much of the dealing side of the art market had moved online, he took the opportunity to create his Margate outpost.
It’s open to casual visitors just as much as it is art buyers and shows solo exhibitions by established global artists working in paint, drawing, sculpture and more. Expect bold colours, big ideas and thoughts to ponder on once you leave.
In town, the Pie Factory hosts local artists – anything from watercolours of seascapes to experimental ceramics – and changes on a weekly basis. Upstairs, and new for 2021, is the world’s only Crab Museum, opening soon. Keep an eye on the website for further details.
Pie Factory Margate/Facebook
The High Street is now full of ghosts of a former retail age but the creative folk of Margate didn’t let these shells of ex-commerce sit empty for long; the former Woolworth’s building has been taken over by The Margate School and regularly hosts exhibitions from its students as well as those on their residency programmes, and; the former Primark building is currently in the process of being turned into the country’s first national cultural centre for diaspora communities.
Tuck into: at The George & Heart. With the choice of the plush, sumptuous interiors or the airy garden courtyard, The George & Heart is the perfect place to get the measure of how the creative incomers are impacting the town. Located on an intersection just beyond the old town and opposite The Tudor House, Margate’s oldest building, the pub’s clientele is a mix of creative young DFLers (down from Londoners) and visitors alike. The roasts are inspired by legendary Hackney roast chef Papa Dez and served with all the trimmings. It's worth booking in advance to secure a table.
The George & Heart/Facebook
Lead image: Diana Jarvis
READ MORE: 6 of the best days out in Kent
Comments
Be the first to comment
Do you want to comment on this article? You need to be signed in for this feature