9 reasons to visit Cumbrae, Scotland's rugged isle
Discover why the Scots try to keep this tiny enchanted island to themselves, and what wild adventures you can have there.
Been to Cumbrae? Even heard of the island? Thought not. To be honest, even as an east coast Scot, most of my friends don’t know about Cumbrae, as I found out when I went back recently and had to explain I wasn’t heading off south to ‘Cumbria’. Those Scots who are in the know could easily be forgiven for keeping this gorgeous wee slice of the Firth of Clyde all too themselves. Here are 9 reasons you should visit.
1. Cumbrae is Scotland’s most accessible isle
No arduous overnight ferry to the Northern Isles or battling across the treacherous Minch required here. Just hop on a train from Glasgow to Largs on the Clyde coast, then step off straight on to the waiting ferry. The sail over only takes 10 minutes! Maybe just enough time to spot a porpoise or a dolphin. These waters are alive with our marine mammal cousins; myriad seabirds too, from all manner of gulls, through to oystercatchers, curlews and diving gannets.
2. There's magic Millport
This pretty wee Victorian-era resort is urban Cumbrae. A heritage initiative is seeing the businesses along the palm-fringed waterfront promenade being spruced up with revamped retro façades, more hipster than Hebridean. There are wee bakers, sweetie shops and delis, so it’s great for just easing along delving into the stores. Millport is fronted by a beach too, but the best sands are at Kames, an easy stroll to the east. Look out for ‘Crocodile Rock’ en route – you really cannot miss it. Kids love it.
David Falconer/Shutterstock
3. The Tour de Cumbrae
To some Glaswegians Cumbrae is synonymous with cycling as you can easily zip around its 10-mile-long coastline on the pancake flat road. There are a sprinkling of bike rental shops in Millport – I went out with Mapes of Millport, which offers e-bikes that come in handy on windy days. It’s glorious cycling around with lots of little beaches to stop off at, swathes of wildlife and great views. A handy pit stop is Fintry Bay, which sports a café with deckchairs and hammocks, plus a bizarre bus that they’re planning to turn into somewhere you can stay.
READ MORE: 10 life-affirming experiences you can only enjoy in Scotland
Fintry Bay/Facebook
4. It's world beating
Millport is home to the Cathedral of the Isles, a glorious Gothic Revival dame whose congregation is limited to 100. That is because it is the smallest cathedral in the UK. A barman I met reckoned it is the smallest in the world, though Google remains unconvinced. It’s a lovely spot either way, shrouded in trees and wild garlic. What is the smallest in the world, or rather the narrowest, is the Guinness World Records-recognised ‘Narrowest house in the world’. Chances are you’ll have seen a wider doll’s house.
Millport.org
5. It's gintastic
Forget Scotland’s other national spirit, Scottish gin is hugely popular these days in Caledonia and Cumbrae. The quintet of ladies who met in a local pub in Millport were certainly fans of this most flexible of cocktail starters. So much so that they decided to start their own gin distillery from scratch, and with the help of a crowdfunder the Isle of Cumbrae Distillers went from a pipedream to reality. Their success is as impressive as the quality of the final product. Their distillery on Millport’s main street now has a well-stocked shop with a wee tasting room next to their pride and joy – a compact still that works the gin wonders. This gin is so good it actually tastes great neat, or with a bit of ice.
Isle of Cumbrae Distillers/Facebook
6. You can kayak
Cumbrae makes sense from the water, the great aquatic highway that has been pivotal to Scottish history. On Your Bike! can set you up with a kayak if you want to really get down to water level. Paddle out to the wee islet in the bay where a colony of seals awaits in welcome. This is the best way of appreciating Millport’s dramatic setting and those lovely new shopfronts. You’ll see plenty of seabirds too and maybe the resident dolphin who ploughs the waters between here and Largs. Look out too in late summer and autumn for hulking basking sharks snaking around in search of food. They are perfectly harmless, though it’s quite a feeling to have a huge dorsal fin circling around you.
READ MORE: Which Scottish isle will float your boat?
7. The comfort (and soul) food
There are no fancy Michelin inspector bothering fine dining temples on Cumbrae – it’s not that sort of island. You can tuck into proper haddock and chips with mushy peas fresh from the local fish van at the Royal George Hotel, with a view of the water too. It also serves a decent pint of local heavy ale. At Frasers the life-affirming pub grub continues with plump scampi and chips. I stumbled, too, upon Curry Night at the Tardis-like Newton Bar – a real feast for the hungry. A healthier option is the café at the Garrison House – don’t miss the island heritage museum here too. It does all sorts of salads and plant-based savouries and sweet dishes.
Tana888/Shutterstock
8. The views are incredible
You don’t have to climb a mountain on Cumbrae to savour epic views. Simply follow the four-mile Inner Circuit out of Millport, wander up through the farmland and soon you’ll be atop the Glaid Stone. It’s only 417 feet (127m) high, but the views are staycation-making. To the west, the beaches of Bute unfurl along its sinewy coast. Haunting the background are the hulking hills of Arran, one of Scotland’s largest and most dramatic islands.
READ MORE: A full guide to Arran
Kritaya Sivakomen/Shutterstock
9. There's Little Cumbrae
There are really two Cumbraes – Great Cumbrae and its bijou sister, Little Cumbrae, known locally as ‘Wee Cumbrae’. It used to be pretty much off-bounds unless you were on one of the yoga retreats that bring a spiritual side to the island, but now Sea Clyde scoots out with a RIB (rigid inflatable boat). It’s a glorious escape with its own haunted castle, a craggy coastline and a real wild feel to it more akin to the remote Outer Hebrides than Scotland’s most accessible isle.
Lead image: James McDowall/Shutterstock
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