Italian dreams: which Amalfi Coast resort suits you?
The Amalfi Coast’s dramatic mountains and craggy coves have proved irresistible since Roman times. Today, it proudly resides on the UNESCO World Heritage List and the sherbet-hued clifftop towns – brimming with museums and Roman remains – still draw in the crowds.
Renowned for its extravagant hotels and loyal celebrity following, the Amalfi Coast might seem like a destination reserved exclusively for A-listers and deep-pocketed honeymooners. But there’s much more to it besides. Look beyond the pastel paint and glitzy guestrooms and you’ll discover a spectacular coastline, carpeted in citrus groves and peppered with authentic hamlets and family-friendly fishing villages, with the odd emerald cave or castle to boot.
Whether you’re after bustling piazzas and Blue Flag beaches or you want ancient footpaths and lemon-scented hamlets to yourself, we have the perfect place for your Amalfi Coast holiday.
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For easy day trips: Sorrento
The ‘City of Sirens’ is considered the gateway to the Amalfi Coast, despite not strictly being part of it. Thanks to its fantastic transport links, Sorrento is an easy transfer from Naples and offers a convenient base for keen day-trippers, with the likes of Positano, Amalfi and the island of Capri just a boat ride away.
Thanks to its train station (a rarity here), the archaeological sites of Pompeii and Herculaneum are also in striking distance.
Fancy a day off? Then visit Sorrento’s museums, markets and historic buildings. Or head to the Marina Grande (local harbour) for seafood and to sip limoncello at terrace bars overlooking the Bay of Naples.
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For epic hikes: Amalfi
Despite its grand past, pretty Amalfi isn’t the sprawling metropolis you might expect. Yes, it’s well connected – enabling you to shop for ceramics in the little town of Vietri sul Mare or lunch in Capri – but it’s also small enough that its café-lined piazzas, fountains and beaches are always just a short stroll.
Amalfi is a great base for hikers too, with the ‘Valley of the Ironworks’ on its doorstep. The lush trail reveals cascading waterfalls, orchids, an amazing petrified moss wall and abandoned mills and ironworks.
Alternatively, jump on a bus to sleepy Bomerano and hike the ‘Path of the Gods’ – one of Italy’s most famous hikes. The jaw-dropping clifftop trail is refreshingly flat by local standards, weaving its way to the ancient hamlet of Nocelle, delivering dense chestnut forests and cerulean waters en route. If you have some puff left, descend the 1,500 steps to posh Positano.
When you’re craving more of a village vibe, whitewashed Atrani is also a stone’s throw away.
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For family fun: Maiori
In stark contrast to the usual hard-to-reach rocky coves and crowded pebbly bays, Maiori’s sprawling sandy shores stretch a whole kilometre, making it the Amalfi Coast’s largest beach – some of which is free. Combine that with its pram-friendly promenade and plethora of shops and restaurants and it’s easy to see why Maiori is a hit with families.
While the beach and playground offer entertainment for younger children, older kids can tackle the ‘Path of Lemons’. The picturesque trail follows the ancient route that lemon-growers used to transport their fruits, past countless citrus terraces, all the way to family-friendly Minori. Here, an ancient Roman villa, chilled lemon granitas and the return ferry await.
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For escaping the crowds: Praiano
Quietly residing between busy Positano and Amalfi, serene Praiano escapes the bulk of mass tourism, instead attracting an arty, in-the-know crowd after some peace and privacy. Its roots as an elite hideaway run deep – it was once the go-to summertime haunt for Amalfi’s dukes. Now its whitewashed houses and contemporary hotels look out towards Capri and the Faraglioni Rocks.
This peaceful retreat, just a short drive from the main resorts, is surrounded by beautiful hiking trails and is home to some of the region’s chicest hotels (yes, Casa Angelina, we’re looking at you). Don’t leave without peeking inside Torre a Mare – the former defensive tower is the gallery and workshop of contemporary local artist Paolo Sandulli and has spectacular sea views.
For holidaying like an A-lister: Positano
If you experience a funny sense of déjà vu here, it’s probably because Positano’s vertiginous cascade of colourful buildings is splashed across endless adverts, guide books and glossy magazines, and everyone from Beyoncé to Michael Jordan have been snapped frolicking in its waters or gazing at its Blue Flag beaches. Its fame comes at a price though, with its room rates as steep as its cliffs.
If you can tear yourself away from the glamorous beach, wander the town’s boutique-packed streets; marvel at the majolica-tiled dome of the Church of Santa Maria Assunta; and enjoy an aperitif on Il San Pietro di Positano’s iconic terrace. It offers the best sundowner around – just ask George Clooney.
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For culture seekers: Ravello
Leave behind the crowded beaches and nail-biting ‘Road of 1,000 Bends’ and retreat into the hills, to the verdant village of Ravello. Originally a hideout from barbarian invasions, the ‘City of Music’, as it’s often nicknamed, unwittingly became a muse for famous writers, poets and musicians, inspiring everyone from Wagner to Virginia Woolf. With its innate charm and sweeping sea views, it’s easy to see why.
Today, its world-famous classical music festival and seriously luxurious hotels draw in a cultured crowd after a different Amalfi Coast experience. Enjoy coffee in its lofty pine-fringed piazza, breathe in the scent of the town’s famous, sky-high gardens and enjoy a bird’s-eye view of Italy’s most talked about coastline.
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