48 hours in Denver
From contemporary art galleries to indie craft breweries, colourful music venues to culinary hot spots, the Mile High City has transformed itself over the past decade to become one of America’s trendiest hangouts.
In this ever-changing, rapidly-growing city, street art murals sidle up beside Michelin-star restaurants, hipster food halls meet designer boutiques and speakeasy bars nestle in subterranean caverns, with ample green space to escape the hustle in. It’s Shoreditch on steroids, with breathtaking mountain views for a backdrop; here’s how to spend 48 hours in this diverse, multi-sided city.
Friday
Check in to: Halcyon. This trendy boutique in the upscale Cherry Creek North neighbourhood features 154 contemporary-design rooms, three restaurants, a Kitchen Counter that doubles as a reception and a rooftop pool offering sweeping city views. It’s located a stone’s throw from Cherry Creek Mall, the city’s upscale shopping hub, with eclectic touches adding extra edge – think vinyl record players in the rooms and a speakeasy hidden in the basement.
Get cultural: with a trip to Denver’s Golden Triangle Creative District. This sprawling area is home to more than 16 museums and galleries; unmissable is the Denver Art Museum – a modernist, jagged-edged behemoth containing 70,000 pieces spanning the Old Masters to Native American art – and the Clyfford Still Museum, which contains almost all of the works produced by abstract expressionist Still throughout his career.
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Elsewhere in the district you’ll find the History Colorado Center, offering a glimpse into the region’s past through interactive exhibits, and the Colorado State Capitol – an elaborate, Neoclassical structure which pierces the skyline with its gold-leafed dome and houses the lavish chambers of the Senate.
Have lunch: at Denver Central Market – an eclectic food hall set in a former warehouse with a bar, bakery, butchers, fish market and rotisserie among the offerings. Stop at Vero for woodfired pizzas and handmade pastas, or try Green Seed for salad bowls, smoothies and a bacon-fried rice dish you won’t regret.
Explore: the area with an amble around the surrounding RiNo (or River North Art) district – an eclectic neighbourhood that was once the city’s industrial zone and is now a hip creative hub. Street art murals line the walls; opt for a two-hour Denver Graffiti Tour to see them in the company of a local insider, stop by its smattering of galleries or duck into one of its myriad craft breweries for a flight in this colourful district.
Have dinner at: Rioja. Located in Larimer Square – Denver’s historic district – this award-winning restaurant serves contemporary Mediterranean dishes to an industrial-chic backdrop; think white brick walls, copper-topped bar and show-cooking kitchen lit up like a stage. It’s headed up by Jennifer Jasinski, who was the first chef to be awarded a James Beard award in Denver, and it’s worth the acclaim; try the handmade artichoke tortellini with white-truffle brodo, and follow it up with warm fig beignets and sweet goats’ cheese for an indulgent end.
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Saturday
Head to: Lower Downtown – or LoDo to the locals – to take in the highlights of central Denver, clustered around main drag 16th Street Mall. Stop by the Convention Center to see one of the city’s most famous art installations – the Big Blue Bear, a ginormous, 40-foot-tall (12m) statue peering into the center, created by artist Lawrence Argent in 2005.
Afterwards, head to the nearby Confluence Park for a waterside stroll along the South Platte River, a hot spot for kayaking, tubing and swimming. Visit Union Station for a coffee at The Mercantile – one of several cafés that scatter this grand, 100-year-old landmark – then stop by the Tattered Cover Book Store; an independent bookshop that’s become something of an institution in the city.
Have lunch: at the nearby Denver Milk Market for another street food experience. Built on a former dairy plant, this local favourite is worth a stop for the design alone, with a mirror-tiled walkway, milk bucket mural and giant wooden hand among the quirkier features. Try Albina by the Sea for lobster bisque, or stop by Ruth’s Butchery for bursting-at-the-seams burgers served American-style.
Grab a beer: at Denver's slew of craft breweries – it's no wonder the city has been dubbed the ‘Napa Valley of Beer’. Close by you’ll find Denver Beer Co; a hipster-friendly spot with a focus on sustainability, serving small-batch beers that change with the seasons and rotating food trucks in a former car garage. Stop for a ‘Juicy Freak’ or ‘Tart Delight’ and take a tour of the tap room to learn more about the process.
See a concert: When dusk sets in, it’s time for Denver’s real show-stopper – Red Rocks Amphitheatre. Located a 30-minute drive from the city centre, this spectacular, 9,000-capacity outdoor venue has become something of an icon the world over thanks to its unique backdrop – all copper-coloured monoliths and starry night skies – with a stage built into the rocks and seats rising in wooden tiers above. Everyone from The Beatles to Elton John have graced its strobe-lit stage over the years; head to the Hall of Fame to see the full list of stars who’ve performed here before you settle in for a night to remember.
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Sunday
Take a stroll: in one of Denver’s parks. City Park is home to Denver Zoo – where more than 4,000 animals reside across 80 acres – as well as lakes, historic monuments and a science museum, while the Botanic Gardens offer colourful flora from across the world, plus open-air concerts throughout the summer.
If you’re looking to go a little further afield, venture an hour and a half out of the city to see Rocky Mountain National Park. This sprawling expanse is home to the highest continuous paved road in the US (the Trail Ridge Road), with snow-capped peaks, aqua-blue lakes and yellow aspen forests for a backdrop. Moose, bears, elk and mountain lions call its scenic slopes home, and it’s a hot spot for hiking with gentle trails and hardier climbs leading to cascading falls and panoramic lookouts. Explorer Tours offers daytrips from Denver, visiting the gateway town of Estes Park before meandering through the area’s landscapes to get a glimpse into the natural charms of this breathtaking, mountain-covered state.
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Getting there and around
Several airlines (including Aer Lingus, Air Canada, American Airlines, British Airways, Lufthansa and United) offer direct flights from London Heathrow to Denver, with indirect flights available from regional airports.
Once you’re there, it’s easy to get around; RTD Light Rail runs trains across the city, connecting the likes of 16th Street Mall, the Convention Center and Union Station with the airport. A free electric bus (the MallRide) also runs along 16th Street Mall every day to shuttle you between the main highlights of Downtown.
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Lead image: Kevin Ruck/Shutterstock
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