48 hours in Palermo
The capital of Sicily has been conquered by countless civilisations over the centuries, and that's reflected in everything from Palermo's mix of architecture to its Arab-inspired dishes. Here's how to spend the perfect 48 hours in this chaotic Italian city.
The main gateway to the beautiful, historic island of Sicily is its capital, Palermo, located in the north of the island. Offering an equal mix of grit and glamour, Palermo is quite a sight to behold, surrounded by mountains and topped by domes and spires in every direction. Tumbledown apartments and chaotic markets and bazaars sit next to elegant Baroque palaces filled with riches and magnificent churches dripping in gold, reflecting the many civilisations that made their roots on this unique Italian island.
Then, of course, there’s the food – reason alone to visit this city. Think arancini, addictive ricotta-filled cannoli, refreshing pistachio ice granitas and dishes that reflect the island’s 200 years under Arab rule, such as fish couscous and spaghetti with almonds. Oh, and who can ignore the gelato?
Here’s how to spend the perfect weekend in Palermo.
Friday
Check-in at: L’Olivella B&B. Set in the historic centre, a short walk away from the Massimo Theatre, this lovely bed and breakfast is housed in a gorgeous Liberty-style palace. You’ll be welcomed by Elena, whose family has owned this building for four generations. Communal spaces are elegant and rooms are spacious, with some boasting frescoed ceilings and four-poster beds.
Get your bearings: by strolling along Via Vittorio Emanuele through the historic centre of the city. Start at the Fontana Pretoria, a monumental fountain built in the mid-1500s in Tuscany, then transferred to Palermo in 644 separate parts and pieced together like a jigsaw puzzle. The fountain gained infamy for the naked figures that surround it, with the citizens of Palermo nicknaming the square it’s located in the ‘Piazza della Vergogne’ or square of shame.
Image: Shutterstock/ecstk22
Continue along the same street until you reach the Quattro Canti, a large crossroads flanked on each corner by an elegant baroque fountain, representing the four seasons of the year.
Further along, you’ll pass landmarks including the Chiesa di San Giuseppe dei Padri Teatini, a cupola-topped, frescoed church that dates back to the 17th century; as well as Palazzo Riso, now housing a contemporary art museum; and the grand Biblioteca centrale della Regione Siciliana, or central library.
Have dinner at: Antica Focacceria San Francesco. One of the oldest restaurants and focacca joints in the city, having opened in 1834, the Antica Focacceria is located in its own romantic square, dimly lit by streetlamps and surrounded by churches and street art murals. This is a good place to try two of Sicily’s most traditional pasta dishes – pasta con le sarde (pasta with sardines and fennel) and rigatoni a la Norma (with tomato and aubergine sauce).
Saturday
Visit: Palermo Cathedral. Start off this morning where you left off your stroll yesterday – at the end of Via Vittorio Emanuele, where you’ll find the city’s colossal cathedral. Created in 1184 by the Normans, it was built on the site of an old Muslim mosque and houses the royal tombs of kings, queens and emperors through the ages. Today, it features a unique mix of architectural styles including Norman, Gothic, Medieval and Arabic. The main part of the cathedral is free, but you’ll need separate tickets to visit the tombs, crypt, treasury or terraces.
Image: Shutterstock/Valery Bareta
Discover: Palazzo dei Normanni. Just beyond the cathedral through a leafy park lies the enormous Norman Palace – one of the most spectacular sights in the city. During summer and other busy times of the year, you may want to reserve tickets ahead of time. This royal palace was the seat of the Kings of Sicily during the Norman domination of the island and continues to be a seat of power for Sicily’s regional parliament today. It is the oldest royal residence in Europe and some parts even date back to the Arab rule in the 9th century.
The highlight is most definitely the Palatine Chapel filled with Byzantine mosaics and completely covered from wall to wall in glittering gold. The palace is huge and you can easily spend all morning here marvelling at its dazzling rooms, museum and monumental garden.
Stop for lunch at: Sfrigola. Just beyond the Norman Palace under a large stone archway, you’ll find this tiny place serving up some of the best arancini in the city. These saffron-flavoured rice balls are filled with various traditional ingredients (think basil and fresh tomato or prosciutto and mozzarella), before being covered in breadcrumbs and deep fried. There are just a few tables and chairs outside, but if these are full then you can always take your tasty lunch away to eat in the shady Villa Bonanno Park, right in front of the Norman Palace.
Step inside: The Teatro Massimo, the city’s opulent opera house built in a neoclassical style between 1875 and 1897. If you can’t catch a performance, there are guided tours of the theatre available.
Refuel with a snack: Tired out? Do as the locals do and get a hit of caffeine and sugar with an espresso paired and a cannolo from one of the many traditional cafés. Top tip: the plain ricotta cannoli are the best, studded with pistachios or pieces of candied orange peel. Forget the overly sweet ones flavoured with chocolate or hazelnut.
Have dinner at: Pizzeria Frida. Even though this restaurant is themed around Mexican artist Frida Kahlo, it really does offer some of the tastiest pizza in the city. The dough they use is based on an ancient recipe and is left to rise for 48 hours beforehand. Order one of the house speciality quadri pizzas – square pizzas with a filled and stuffed crust. Go for the Frida pizza for a true hit of Sicily, topped with pistachio pesto.
Sunday
Shop at: Mercato del Capo. Palermo is full of markets and one of the best is the bustling Mercato del Capo, running along Via Sant'Agostino. It’s loud, colourful and full of delicious things to try. Sample some traditional Sicilian streetfood specialities including panelle – crispy chickpea fritters – and cazzilli – fried mashed potato croquettes. Make sure to pick up some treats to take home too, such as bags of sundried tomatoes and jars of pistachio pesto or sweet pistachio spread.
Image: Paolo Certo/Alamy Stock Photo
Get lost: in the historic centre, discovering its many churches, monuments and impressive buildings. Some of the highlights include the churches of Santa Maria dell'Ammiraglio and St. Cataldo, which sit right next to each other overlooking the lovely Piazza Bellini; and the opulent Museo Palazzo Mirto, a Baroque royal palace which is now a museum. When you’ve finished exploring, head down to the port area for a stroll.
Grab a gelato at: Rorò Gelateria. One of Palermo’s best gelato spots, Rorò, serves unique flavours such as jasmine tea and lavender, but of course it’s the pistachio that’s the best. Do as the locals do and order your scoop of gelato inside a soft brioche bun, then enjoy your treat on the pretty square of Piazza Marina that the gelateria sits on.
Main image: Shutterstock/Kiev.Victor
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