48 hours in Kraków
Magnificent spires, fire-breathing dragons and a bellyful of pierogi and vodka – Poland's second city is filled with delights for a long weekend escape.
With medieval architecture, a fraught but fascinating history and a tempting food and drinks scene, Kraków makes for a fine (and affordable) European city break. Perched on the banks of the Vistula River, the former capital of Poland (until 1596) is still ringed by the remnants of its medieval walls. At its heart is Stare Miasto, the whimsically charming UNESCO-listed Old Town, where you can wander along wide cobbled streets, under custard-coloured arcades and through grand squares.
The best place to get your bearings is Rynek Glówny Market Square, which has been a gathering place for centuries. Dominated by the twin spires of St. Mary’s Basilica and the Renaissance-era Cloth Hall, it's lined with elegant pavement bars perfect for people watching.
South of the Old Town is Kazimierz, the Jewish Quarter (pictured below), which has a different vibe to Old Town, with narrow streets lined by cosy, atmospheric cafés and quirky museums.
While winter is oh-so pretty – expect bright blue skies and a crisp frost – it does get cold and Kraków has more than its fair share of snow. Still, it's a great city to visit at any time of year, especially during spring and autumn, when the weather is kind and the summer crowds have long gone.
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Friday
Check into: Hotel Stary, a glorious and grand 19th-century palace. Spacious rooms are decorated with fine rugs and antiques, and many have balconies overlooking Market Square. A big draw is the spa, which is hidden away in the brick-lined vaulted cellars and has a brace of indoor pools and a salt chamber. The rooftop sky bar is perfect for a post-soak sundowner.
For a more affordable stay, consider PURO Kraków Kazimierz, which has bright, simply stylish rooms in Kazimierz, Kraków’s historic Jewish Quarter, packed with cool café-bars, vintage shops and art galleries.
Hotel Stary/Booking.com
Take a stroll: Kraków's historic centre is nice and compact and easily walkable, with many of the highlights – such as Market Square, the Jewish Quarter and Wawel Castle – all within easy reach north of the Vistula River. Of course, the best way to learn about any old city is to join a walking tour. The Free Walking Tour group meets in front of St Mary's Basilica every morning for a two-hour tour of the Old Town (it's free to join, but don't forget to tip).
Get a bird's-eye view: from the top of the 15th-century Bugle Tower, the higher of the twin spires towers in St Mary's Basilica. It's named for the hourly bugle call, which historically warned residents of trouble. Standing 269 feet (82m) high and crowned with a Gothic cupola, it's also home to a viewing platform that offers sweeping views across the Market Square, Old Town and beyond.
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Taste pierogi: If there's one food you must try in Kraków, it's pierogi, the heavenly handmade dumplings that originate from the 13th century. A good bet is Pierogarnia Krakowiacy, a delightfully twee family-run restaurant found in a handful of locations in the Old Town. It serves up numerous flavours, both classic and more contemporary, the most popular being pork and onion, cabbage and mushrooms or Ruskie, filled with potato, onion and cottage cheese.
Pick up some local crafts: Running through the centre of Market Square, Cloth Hall (whose current form dates to the 16th-century) is a gloriously neo-Gothic arcade that has been selling bits and bobs since medieval times. It's still packed to rafters with stalls hawking essential Polish souvenirs such as Cracovian folk costumes, amber jewellery and acres of intricate lacework.
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Go for a drink: Take a wander south along the banks of the Vistula River and stop for a beer at one of the moored barges. If you go by the frenzy of locals who frequent it, Barka Arkadia is by far the most popular spot on the river, not least because of its excellent beer selection and staggering views of Wawel Castle. Alternatively, try one of dozens of flavoured vodkas at Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa, a cheap-and-cheerful shot bar found all over Poland.
Have dinner: All this sightseeing has worked up quite the appetite. If you're staying in Old Town, book dinner at Restauracja Szara on Market Square and dine out on treats such as goats' cheese baked in honey and beef Rydberg under an imposingly Gothic vaulted ceiling.
See live music: Cracovians are quite the jazz connoisseurs. Catch one of the nightly sets at the Harris Piano Jazz Bar, a cavernous cellar bar and music venue under Market Square. Kick back with a smoky whiskey and listen to live jazz and blues until the early hours of the morning.
Tip: Although part of the EU, Poland has its own currency, Polish Zloty. Kraków, in particular, is largely cashless and accepts cards pretty much everywhere, but it's worth taking some Zloty for smaller shops and markets.
Saturday
Go for brunch: at Milkbar Tomasza. Milk bars (or bar mleczny in Polish) are government-subsidised cafeterias, a hangover from Poland's communist past. Authentically utilitarian, they serve traditional Polish dishes such as pierogi, potato pancakes and soups, as well as breakfast dishes and sweet pancakes at remarkably reasonable prices.
Visit a salt mine: Much of the city was built on the staggering profits made from the region's natural salt caves. In the Greater Kraków suburb of Wieliczka, an easy bus ride from the centre, The Wieliczka Salt Mine is a subterranean wonderland carved out by miners over seven centuries. It features nearly 186 miles (300km) of tunnels and caves, many decorated with religious icons, royal figures and mythical creatures whittled out of salt. The pièce de résistance is the intricate St Kinga's Chapel, which sits 328 feet (100m) underground.
Kanuman/Shutterstock
Be wowed at: Wawel Castle. Another must see is Wawel Royal Castle, the 16th-century palace which is now one of the country's finest art galleries. While the grounds are free to wander, it's well worth grabbing tickets to explore one or two of the five museums, such as the State Rooms or the Royal Private Apartments.
Highlights include the royals' Meissen collection, and the Tapestry Collection of Sigismund II Augustus, which was looted by the Russians in 1795 and only returned in the 1960s. Afterwards, venture over to Wawel Hill and say hello to the Wawel Dragon. Based on a Polish folktale about a cruel, folk-eating dragon, the carved wooden statue breathes actual fire every five minutes.
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Go for dinner at: Restauracja Pod Baranem, a charmingly homely restaurant spread over five rooms all with beamed ceilings, stone floors and local art. It has stacks of character and serves excellent examples of classic Polish dishes like stuffed cabbage rolls, sour rye soup and traditionally roasted goose, pork and venison.
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Secret nightcap: Follow the cool crowds and step through the wardrobe into cocktail Narnia in Mercy Brown, Kraków's very first speakeasy. Hidden away on Floriana Straszewskiego (shh don't tell them we sent you), it is a real treat inside, with its low-lighting, plush velvets and dark wood furnishings. Kick back with one of the bespoke cocktails served in vintage glassware and, if you're lucky, see a late-night burlesque show.
Sunday
Go for breakfast: Tucked away between Kazimierz and Old Town on Starowiślna 14, Mo-ja Cafe is a trendy spot for breakfast and brunch. Try the breakfast pizza with crispy bacon, egg and asparagus or the taco pancakes with egg, cheese and bacon – not to mention its excellent coffee and freshly pressed juices. There's plenty of choice for vegans and vegetarians too.
Take a stroll: Work off your belly-busting brunch with a walk around Planty Park, a series of gardens linked to form a green ring around the Old Town. Enter through the beautiful St Florian Gate to the north and wander along the Royal Road and through the medieval suburb of Kleparz, keeping an eye out for the stone remains of the city's ancient walls.
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Explore the Jewish Quarter: A 15-minute stroll from Wawel Hill is Kazimierz, the old Jewish Quarter. Learn about Poland's long Jewish history in the Old Synagogue museum laid out under grand vaulted ceilings. While you're here, pop into the Ethnographic Museum in Kazimierz Town Hall and learn about the many cultures in Poland (not least because it's free on Sundays).
Many visitors to Kraków want to visit Auschwitz-Birkenau, the Nazi concentration camps that lie 41 miles (66km) from the city. There are several day tours available to book, including this one from Viator – any visitor should be prepared for an incredibly harsh and upsetting reality.
Another important site is Oskar Schindler's Factory in the Zabłocie district of Kraków. Schindler's Enamel Factory saved the lives of more than 1,200 Jews. It now houses a permanent exhibition called Kraków under Nazi Occupation 1939-1945, which cleverly explores individual histories about life under occupation, including the underground resistance, during the Second World War.
Enjoy a traditional Jewish lunch: Stay for lunch in Kazimierz at the Dawno Ten, a charming restaurant behind a series of old shopfronts. It serves classic Jewish dishes like cholent, a traditional stew served on the Sabbath, and Jewish caviar, paté made with chopped chicken livers, eggs and truffle.
Dawno Ten/Facebook
Last beer: Finally, enjoy one last beer in the Singer Cafe in Kazimierz, one of the most charismatic bars in the city. Once a sewing machine factory, it's like stepping into your grandma's front room, with its candlelit bar rooms, fringed lampshades and vintage sewing machine tables. Yet it's open from 9am until as late (or early) as 6am at the weekend making it one of the hottest spots in Kraków.
Tip: Visit during the annual National Pierogi Festival (6-12 August 2023) and try all variations of Poland's favourite dumpling. There are two awards for the best pierogi, one chosen by experts and one by the hungry public, plus live music and entertainment. Alternatively, catch the cutest Dachshund Festival in mid-September when the city's sausage dogs parade the streets dressed in costume.
Getting there
Budget airlines Ryanair, Wizz Air and easyJet all fly direct to Kraków from various UK airports. For more information on Kraków, visit krakow.travel.
Lead image: den_didenko/Shutterstock
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