10 things to see and do in France's Loire-Atlantique area

From a lively city break surrounded by art and culture to a relaxing retreat by the coast, France’s western Pays de la Loire region has something for everyone

Famed for its beautiful chateaux and rolling vineyards, the Loire-Atlantique is a picturesque department in the Pays de la Loire region of western France. It’s home to the country’s sixth-largest city, Nantes, which was once a prolific ship-building port due to its prime Atlantic estuary location.

Since the shipyards closed in the late Eighties, Nantes has rapidly reinvented itself as a bustling hub for creativity and culture. Read on to find out what this forward-thinking city and its surrounding area has to offer…

1. Wander along Le Voyage a Nantes

In 2011, Le Voyage a Nantes was launched to drive tourism to the region through a permanent trail that takes visitors on a unique journey of art and culture. The ‘green line’ – a literal 12-mile (20km) green line that’s found on pavements throughout the city – consists of 60 stops and guides its followers between more than 100 works of art and historic landmarks.

To the east of the city, you’ll find the historic Bouffay district, with its medieval streets, lively bars and the elaborate Gothic cathedral of Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Paul.

In 2013, Nantes became the first and only French city to be awarded the European Green Capital title and it has plenty of urban green spaces to explore, including the Jungle Interieure, by artist Evor, who has created a thriving garden across the private walkway of Passage Bouchaud.

Jungle Interieur Nantes Jungle Intérieure, Martin Argyroglo / LVAN

For those who love to shop, The Passage Pommeraye in the western Graslin district is a must-visit. The grand arcade entwines exquisite boutiques and patisseries with 19th-century architecture across three levels.

Passage Pommeraye Nantes Passage Pommeraye, Philippe Piron / LVAN

2. Visit the Chateau des ducs de Bretagne

In the heart of the medieval quarter, the Chateau des ducs de Bretagne (the castle of the dukes of Brittany) was once an impenetrable limestone fortress built to protect the region from the King of France. Home to Francois II, the last duke of an independent Brittany (which Nantes was then part of) and his daughter, Anne de Bretange, the Renaissance-inspired residence was commissioned during the 15th century.

The defensive walls were removed in 1757 and today, venturers across the drawbridge pay no toll to admire the elegant palace facade and vast courtyard, which hosts concerts and events all year round.

Inside, the grand chateau houses the Musee d’histoire de Nantes. Among its 28 rooms, perhaps the most poignant area of the museum is one dedicated to Nantes’ prolific role in the slave trade. Sensitively collated, yet not afraid to look its troubled history squarely in the eye, visitors have the opportunity to learn of the atrocious conditions that African captives were forced to endure during the three-month Atlantic crossing to America. Elsewhere in the city, on the Quai de la Fosse, the Memorial to the Abolition of Slavery pays tribute to victims of slavery across the world, and is the largest memorial of its kind in the world.

Chateau des ducs de Bretagne Nantes Château des ducs de Bretagne, Philippe Piron / LVAN

3. Explore Ile de Nantes by bike

Since the collapse of the shipyards in 1987, Ile de Nantes has become one of Europe’s major urban projects. The 337-hectare stretch of land situated on the Loire River is a bustling hub, which draws tourists, professionals and students alike.

The Voyage’s ‘green line’ continues on the island, leading riders past permanent art installations, the university’s art and design campus, plus examples of the city's experimental architecture. These include the Palais de Justice courthouse and the Manny Building, which has an audible facade – speakers hidden beneath the criss-crossing strips of white metal play sounds of clanging metal and birds chirruping.

Nantes is said to be one of the world’s most bike-friendly cities and many of the island’s former slipways have been redesignated into walkways and cycle paths, making it a great way to get around. Bikes can be hired from Detours de Loire for as little as €15 per half-day rental.

Cycling the green line at Ile de Nantes The green line, Nautilus Nantes

4. Marvel at Les Machines de l’ile

Also on the island, you’d be forgiven for thinking you’ve entered into a mechanical dream world at tourist attraction Les Machines de l’ile.

Paying tribute to Nantes’ industrial history, children and adults alike will be filled with wonder as the Grand Elephant comes to life and makes its way along the quay of the Loire. This 12-metre-high, 48.4-ton mechanical pachyderm is able to carry 50 people on its back, while amazed onlookers below duck and dive as it sprays water from its enormous metal trunk.

In 2012, the three-storey funfair carousel, le Carrousel des Mondes Marins (meaning the Sea World Merry-Go-Round) joined the Parc des Chantiers attraction, made up of 36 moving elements, from giant squid to flying fish.

If that wasn’t enough, a menagerie of moving wood and steel creations can be found in The Galerie. The laboratory demonstrates various machines that, once tested, will be part of a new Giant Heron Tree project on the island. Arachnophobes, look out for the Mechanical Spider that climbs out of its lair and flexes its eight steel limbs above the crowds.

Machines de l'ile Grand Elephant and carousel Les Machines de l’île, David Gallard / LVAN

5. Stay at the Oceania Hotel de France

Ideally located in the centre of Nantes, Oceania Hotel de France is a charming four-star hotel set in an elegant 18th-century former mansion. The grand foyer sets the tone, with a bold, patterned carpet, opulent crystal lighting and striking zebra print wallpaper.

The hotel has 72 rooms, decorated in an elegant Louis XVI style and kitted out with comfy beds, walk-in showers and there's even an espresso machine in each room to fuel your adventures.

A breakfast buffet is served between 6:30am and 10:00am. Be sure to save room on your plate for a slice of traditional gateau Nantais, a dense almond sponge infused with dark rum, with a thin sugar glaze.

Oceana de hotel France lobby
Oceania Hotel de France

6. Dine with the locals at Sain

Run by brothers Samuel and Josselin, this canteen-style wine bar and restaurant in the Bouffay district focuses on seasonal cuisine from local producers, with a pared-back menu of simple, well-balanced dishes served in a laid-back, rustic setting.

Clearly a favourite haunt of locals, Sain’s floor plan may be modest but its gastronomical prowess is mighty, so be sure to reserve a table to avoid disappointment.

Sain restaurant Nantes SAIN Nantes / Instagram

7. Discover Pornic harbour

Just an hour by train or car from Nantes lies the picturesque fishing village of Pornic. The coastal town was once home to a thriving sardine trade until the 1960s and is now a hotspot for tourists, who are drawn in by its artisan boutiques and scenic harbour vistas.

Its crowning jewel is the storybook castle that overlooks the bay. Built in the 10th century, the ancient chateau is often dubbed the Bluebeard castle, as it was once owned by notorious Breton nobleman and prolific child serial killer Gilles de Rai, who is said to have partly inspired Charles Perrault’s Bluebeard folk story. Although privately owned, Pornic castle tours can be booked at the tourist office.

To refuel, visit La Fraiseraie, famed for its delicious range of products packed with fresh strawberries including jams, pastries and sorbets.

Across the water, you’ll spot a host of beautiful holiday homes at Gourmalon, once owned by the Parisian bourgeoisie seeking to escape the summer heat and bathe in the reputedly healing coastal waters of the Jade Coast. Today, the houses at Gourmalon are still mostly holiday residences and can be admired while taking the winding coastal trail.

Pornic harbour and chateau Pornic harbour, Melanie Chaigneau

8. Feast in a historic casino at Marius

A restaurant located in Pornic’s old casino, Marius is the place to see and be seen. Built in 1896 by Nantes architect, M. Regnier, the elegant building sits right on the waterfront, offering gastronomic delights in an Art Deco setting.

Marius prides itself on its French culinary heritage and "homemade cuisine, made from raw and fresh products", with classic dishes that include duck carpaccio with foie gras and la choucroute de la mer – a deluxe seafood selection combining sea bream, shrimp and cuttlefish in butter. For those with a sweet tooth, don't miss the tart tatin with caramel, chocolate and vanilla ice cream.

After your meal, head up the spiral staircase that leads to a chic cocktail bar, or check out the private games room – complete with gold and silver table football – or step onto the rooftop terrace. It's the perfect place to watch the sun go down, with views of Pornic chateau.

Marius restaurant Pornic France Marius

9. Unwind in a scenic spa hotel

The Alliance Pornic Hotel Thalasso & Spa is the ideal location for a little R&R. Perched on a sheltered cove overlooking La Source beach, the Thalasso de Pornic is situated in another of the town's former casino buildings. The Thalasso opened in 1990 and is dedicated to harnessing the cleansing and revitalising properties of the seawater – something which has been drawing visitors to Pornic since the Victorian era.

The day spa offers an extensive range of treatments that promote wellness and relaxation, from massages to hot seawater therapies.

Day spa-goers can also unwind in the expansive aquatic area, with a selection of bubbling pools and jets ready to soothe every muscle. Prefer to stay dry? Take your favourite book to the sun terrace overlooking the beach.

When you get peckish, head to La Source d’Alliance restaurant for balanced dishes prepared with fresh, local products and featuring breathtaking ocean views from its vast bay windows. If you can’t bring yourself to leave, the four-star hotel has 112 rooms, so plump for a stay to fully recharge your batteries.

Pornic beach and spa hotel Pornic Thalasso & Spa, Melanie Chaigneau

10. Sample wines at Chateau du Coing

Situated at the confluence of the Sevre and Maine rivers is Chateau du Coing. The historic estate is one of the region's finest, built between the 15th and 19th centuries in the beautiful Italianate style.

Nestled within Nantes’ vineyards, this chateau is a family-run winery, owned by mother and daughter, Veronique and Aurore, whose family have lived here since 1973.

Chateau du Coing (‘coin’ meaning ‘corner’ in French) runs tours of its picturesque grounds (if you’re lucky, accompanied by Great Dane, Mystique) and tastings of the region’s famous muscadet wine, a dry white exclusively made in the Pays de la Loire region from Melon de Bourgogne grapes.

The vineyard stretches for 50 hectares and the microclimate that results from the chateau’s unique river location brings great minerality and freshness to its wines. Try them for yourself in one of Chateau du Coing’s wine and cheese pairing events or country dinners.

Chateau du Coing vineyard Château du Coing

If you’re looking for a greener way to visit the chateau, why not follow the river Sevre and approach by water? Canoes, kayaks and paddleboards can be rented at CKV, which is an hour's leisurely paddle away at Vertou, west of the vineyards.

Getting around

Nantes is around a one-hour flight from London airports, or can be accessed via the Eurostar from London, with an onward cross-country train from Paris Montparnasse train station.

Getting around Nantes is easy on foot or by bike. A Pass Nantes can be purchased from around €26 per adult for a 24-hour period, with 48-hour, 72-hour and seven-day options also available. The pass can be used on all public transport services, including the easy-to-navigate tram system in Nantes, as well as in Saint-Nazaire and the vineyards.

Lead image: Opéra Graslin, Franck Tomps / LVAN