Explore Reykjavík’s hip Grandi harbour district
One of the most exciting neighbourhoods in Iceland’s capital retains its dockside charm while dishing up its fair share of fun… and fish, of course!
There are few places cooler than Reykjavík’s Grandi Harbour District and I don’t just mean the -6°C (21°F) temperatures in winter. A 10-minute walk from Iceland’s capital's centre, Grandi harbour is thriving thanks in part to its array of smart cube-like shops and restaurants that line the streets to the left of the bobbing boats.
Lynne Maxwell
The scenery is hard to beat here – especially in winter when snow covers the landscape. The low mountain range in the distance has more than a dusting of the white stuff, while the pale blue and pink skies are enough to make you get your camera out straight away.
Lynne Maxwell
But what also makes this place magical is the locals’ pride – even though none of them live in this area. A lot have simply set up businesses with their families, from the hugely popular Valdis (selling ice cream so good that queues snake outside even in freezing weather) to the chic jewellery shop Jen’s.
Art fans will love the many studios and galleries in the area, where the artists themselves work around you as you gasp in awe at their masterpieces.
What’s cooking?
Then there’s the Grandi Mathöll, a street food hall that’s only been open just over a year, and boy it’s good. Located in a refurbished former fish factory, the vast space offers traditional Icelandic cuisine as well as options from around the world. I had a meaty keto pizza which was delicious.
It’s not the only spot for a bite though. Gracing Grandi, as it has done since 1935, is Kaffivagninn, Iceland’s oldest restaurant. It started off as a truck serving coffee which is what its name translates to: coffee wagon. Serving breakfast, lunch, dinner, cakes, pastries and drinks, it was popular with fishermen in the mid 20th century as it opened early and closed late.
kaffivagninn/Facebook
Specialising in fresh fish, of course, you get the soup of the day, coffee and bread included in every lunch order. The portions are huge too. It’s no wonder the fishermen loved it.
READ MORE: Where to go in Iceland beyond the Golden Circle
Rooms with a view
Realising the old harbour’s attraction, hotels soon sat up and took notice, and the one that nailed the best location is Icelandair Hotel Reykjavík Marina. Moments from downtown Reykjavík, it's situated in a completely renovated four-storey building that has become a landmark among locals.
It is right next to the historical, and still fully functioning, dry dock called Slippur. The bedrooms look out onto the huge ships docked there and when the snow is falling, it’s a sight you’ll never tire of seeing.
Lynne Maxwell
Things to do
With a huge nod to Grandi’s fishing industry past (and present), the harbour has plenty of museums for culture-craving visitors. Just as the North Atlantic air brings with it a fresh whiff of that day’s catch, you can immerse yourself in the fascinating story of the country’s fishermen, who risked their lives on the open seas for centuries, at the Reykjavík Maritime Museum.
Polina Shestakova/Shutterstock
With detailed exhibitions, artefacts, films, interactive stations and photographs, you’ll learn all about the infamous Cod Wars of the 1950s and beyond. Explore the evolution of fishing vessels from rowing boats to ships, equipment, clothing, techniques, maritime disasters and more in the fantastic permanent exhibit Fish & Folk – 150 years of fisheries. Watch out for the creepy wall of dried saltfish!
Lynne Maxwell
If you’ve got time, join one of the three daily, one-hour guided tours of the Óðinn, a 900-tonne, former coastguard ship that now rests in the harbour.
Elsewhere, art fans cannot miss a trip to the Marshall Húsið. The former herring factory hosts contemporary art galleries and displays on multiple levels, including a few dedicated to local art genius Olafur Eliasson. His ongoing exhibition of sculptures known for their playful interactions with natural light is a highlight.
Read more about Reykjavík with our guide on places to stay, where to eat and what to do
For a history lesson with a difference, join a free two-hour guided walking tour with CityWalk. The man at the helm is local history graduate Marteinn Briem, and what this guy doesn't know about Reykjavík isn't worth knowing. The tour is packed with insight, fun facts and a few jokes thrown in too (some at his own country's expense!).
Marteinn will collect you from your hotel and even let you stop by Kolaportið flea market to sample that Icelandic delicacy, rotten shark – for free, but at your peril!
READ MORE: Discover Akureyri, Iceland's scenic second city
Lynne Maxwell
While the harbour is thriving in its own right, one spectacular attraction driving even more tourists and locals alike to the area is FlyOver Iceland. The simulator ride takes you on a unique adventure across the whole of Iceland throughout the four seasons.
Lynne Maxwell
An incredible feat of immersive exploration, FlyOver Iceland showcases the country in all its glory. Read more about this unforgettable experience here.
Main image: Roberto La Rosa/Shutterstock
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