There's more to marvellous Marbella than parties and posh hangouts, and you can seek it all out in a chilled weekend (when travel is back on the cards).
Prepare to be surprised by Marbella’s unsung reputation as the ‘vegetable garden of Europe’, where you can be immersed in Andalusian cultural beauty as well as its Spanish stereotypical Costa del Sol charms.
For too long Marbella has struggled to shake off its glitzy, somewhat one-dimensional reputation; a blingtastic beachside resort destination for hedonistic Brits abroad. It doesn’t take much exploration, however, to unearth greater depths beyond the sun and sand.
Yes, you can stroll along the Golden Mile, with its no-expense-spared clubs, hotels and flashy restaurants on one side, and superyachts lining the quay on the other. But if you take an excursion out to the Sierra Nevada mountains, you’ll see the glamorous façade slip away into natural beauty, or enjoy the effortlessly attractive Old Town, which hints at Marbella’s more humble charms and history.
You can dine well here (amid ostentatious décor if you wish) but the variety as well as the quality of produce will astound. Fresh fruit and vegetables are grown year-round in this part of Spain. The olive oil and wine from the area will also impress, and there are opportunities to visit farms, go fishing, and even immerse yourself in the magic of an open-air collection of Salvador Dalí sculptures.
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Put any preconceived notions of the Costa del Sol aside and if you seek out the authentic Marbella within 48 hours then you’ll be well rewarded. And yes, it would be foolish not to go for a splash in the seemingly endless beaches while you’re here too.
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Friday
Check-in to: Hotel Claude for a quiet, restorative base in the upper part of town. A former summer home for Napoleon III’s wife, this 17th-century manor house turned seven-room boutique hotel will impress by stealth with its marble patio, original architecture and artwork. You can safely watch some of the Marbella madness from the romantic rooftop terrace.
Have lunch at: El Estrecho. Because you should start with traditional tapas on the oh-so-narrow Calle San Lázaro to get a sense of how to eat well here. For ‘estrecho’ means ‘narrow’ and is not at all how your waist will feel on your way out, as you indulge in carne mechada (slow-braised pork), salmorejo (Córdoba-style thick gazpacho with tomatoes, bread and garlic), as well as all kinds of fried fish and seafood from the menu.
Become an olive oil expert: at D.Oliva, just around the corner, with its one-hour workshop that helps unravel the mysteries of Spanish extra virgin olive oil. What’s the difference between an Arbequina oil and a Picual? You’ll be able to answer that after sampling six different olive oils like a professional. Oh, there’s freshly baked bread too. You were still hungry, right?
Revive over coffee in: Plaza de los Naranjos, one of the Old Town’s best people-watching spots. Lined with Sevilla orange trees, which gives the square its name, as well as tropical plants, it dates back to 1485.
Top tip: don’t miss the rubbish bins, and we’re not talking about your aim. Each bin in Plaza de los Naranjos is colourfully handpainted by a local artist.
Take a sunset stroll: of the Golden Mile to see what clichéd Marbella is really about. You’ll likely see beach clubs holding parties, hen and stag nights, DJs spinning tunes, stretch limos in traffic jams, and some of its best beaches amid the glamour. If you fancy coming back for clubbing later, see if Funky Buddha takes your interest.
Dine at: The Farm, which may look more like a pretty restaurant in the Old Town, but it’s where you’re guaranteed organic, farm-fresh food. Depending on the season, you could enjoy the speciality paella, or ox tail in red wine sauce with blueberries and straw potato. You can also enjoy a flamenco show here while you linger over the local wine if you wish (let them know when you book) or settle at a quieter table.
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Saturday
Hit the museums: for your dose of culture. Starting with Museo Ralli, a free private art museum, and home to contemporary Latin American and European art. Admire sculptures by Salvador Dalí, as well as works by Joan Miró and Marc Chagall, among many others.
Next is Museo Del Grabado Español, which showcases the work of primarily Spanish painters. It might be small but it has some great masters; you’ll find works by Picasso, as well as Dalí and Miró.
Cook your own lunch: with a cooking class at the Food Room. You can choose from a two-hour Express Workshop or a three-hour Gourmet Workshop and there’s a variety of themes and courses suitable for both adults and children. The three-hour Tapas, Paella and Wine Workshop is an excellent grounding in all the essentials.
Take your food coma to a spa: at Six Senses in the beautiful Puente Romano resort, where treatments include ingredients sourced from southern Spain, such as extra virgin olive oil, sea salt and mountain herbs.
Have a Michelin-starred dinner at: Skina, which is tiny, so do book well ahead. Choose the ‘Seasonal Products Menu’ for seven courses that highlight the best that Marbella’s small producers have to offer, as translated by chef Marcos Granda.
Sunday
Take a hike: of the Sierra Blanca mountains to cap off your trip with some (let’s face it) much-needed cardio and a chance to really appreciate the natural surroundings of Marbella.
Spanish Highs tour company takes full-day tours starting from the ridge of the Sierra Blanca Valley heading along La Concha. It’s not for the vertigo-challenged, as there’s a 500-metre increase in altitude and some exposed ridges, but walking sticks are provided on request and you could be rewarded with views of the Rock of Gibraltar and possibly even the Sierra Nevada on a clear day.
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Getting there and around
Malaga is the nearest airport to Marbella, which lies 32 miles to its southwest. Flights depart from several UK airports with easyJet, Norwegian and Jet2. British Airways flies from London Heathrow, Gatwick, Stansted or Manchester, and flight duration is just less than three hours. Do check current restrictions and travel advice before making plans to visit.
The cost of a taxi from Malaga to Marbella (usually between €70 to €80 for a 40-minute journey) could be close in price to hiring a car for a week, if you’re planning a longer stay or wish to visit a wider area.
Marbella is easily explored by foot or bicycle, and while there are no trains, there’s a reliable bus service that runs along the coast and further inland. See Avanza for timetables.
For more information, see the Marbella Tourism website.
Lead image: Pawel Kazmierczak/Shutterstock