Nestled in the Blue Ridge Mountains, this underrated city has more to offer than meets the eye.
Asheville, in western North Carolina, is the kind of place that bends to fit any taste, whether it be artsy, outdoorsy, high-brow or low-key. And its character is in part down to its storied history.
Once part of the Cherokee Nation, this area of western North Carolina was colonised by European settlers and changed forever by the introduction of the railroad and textile mills.
In the early 1900s, after the Vanderbilt family constructed Biltmore – their country home – here, interest in the town as a place of health and healing flourished. People came in droves for its climate and peaceful setting in the Blue Ridge Mountains and its identity as a highland retreat was shaped into being.
The Asheville of today is a unique composite of those fragments from the past. This offbeat blend of wilderness and city living makes for a unique weekend getaway.
Here are a few ideas for an eclectic weekend visit to Asheville.
Friday
Check-in to: Omni Grove Park Inn. In recent years, Asheville has had a boom of hip boutique hotels but this historic resort in the Grove Park neighbourhood still holds fast. Its stonework and classic Arts and Crafts style evokes the simple charm of the town’s early days.
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There are several dining options, from the Sunset Terrace with stunning views of the Blue Ridge Mountains, to the casual Edison bar. Downstairs in the subterranean “grotto,” guests can indulge in all manner of pampering treatments at their renowned spa.
Top tip: if you’re visiting during the festive season, check out the National Gingerbread House Competition. Every winter the resort hosts a free exhibit of creative edible artistry. Afterwards, sip hot cocoa or cider beside the roaring fireplaces in the Great Hall Bar.
Get your bearings: with a stroll around downtown. The hilly streets lend themselves to window-shopping and sidewalk-strolling. Pack Square, in the centre of town, often has public events and is known for its lively community drum circles.
Once an Art Deco dream, Asheville still maintains a quirky mix of architecture like City Hall, Battery Park Hotel, Grove Arcade, and the Basilica of St. Lawrence.
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Spend the evening: at Cúrate. The spot is a long-time favourite of Asheville’s restaurant scene and located on the site of a former bus depot. Chef Katie Button, who also runs Button & Co. Bagels, serves Spanish-inspired tapas, bocadillos and paellas. In addition to local craft beer, the drinks list includes sangria, cider and a dedicated vermouth menu.
Saturday
Learn more about local history: with a trip to the Biltmore Estate. It’s easy to lose track of time exploring the home and grounds of Asheville’s most famous attraction. Built in 1895, this country home was considered a technological marvel for its time and provides a fascinating look at how the wealthy elite lived during the turn of the century.
Some of the ticket options include a complimentary wine-tasting at the Biltmore Winery and access to Antler Hill Village.
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Go shopping at: Biltmore Village. Across from the main entrance of the Biltmore Estate, there are several clothing boutiques, cafés and gift shops. Coffee or tea and a late afternoon snack at Well-Bred makes for a nice respite for tired feet.
Finish up the afternoon with a short drive over to the Tobacco Barn warehouse for antiques, vintage furniture and retro goods.
Eat dinner at: HomeGrown. This restaurant is Southern “slow food” at its finest and an example of the community’s commitment to locally-sourced, sustainable farming.
The spot offers simple, homely dishes, like meatloaf with gravy and a range of hearty sandwiches (or, as the menu says, ‘sammiches’). There’s a daily blue plate special that usually sells out pretty quickly and the open-faced fried chicken biscuit is popular too. Happily there are plenty of vegan, vegetarian, and gluten-free options.
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Sunday
Explore: the local museums. The Asheville Art Museum has been around since 1948 and has undergone a major revitalisation in the last few years. It features contemporary and folk art collections from American artists, especially from the Appalachian region.
Down the street, the Pinball Museum (and bar) is a fun take on the history of popular gaming through the ages. The entrance fee allows guests unlimited play on a variety of pinball, Atari and Nintendo games.
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Hop over to the: River Arts District. Ride the free trolley from downtown over to the ‘RAD’ side of the French Broad River. Once the city’s industrial area, its warehouses and commercial buildings are now artist studios, galleries, restaurants and breweries. Special events and art tours are held year-round and most of the studios are open to the public.
Have lunch at: Fresh Wood Fired Pizza West. After supporting local artists, stay in the neighbourhood for hot, fresh pies with names like Scarface, Chichi and the Drunken Clam. Their salads are made with the freshest ingredients and sandwiches are served on oven-baked bread.
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Enjoy the nightlife: aboard LaZoom’s City Comedy Tour. This purple party bus is well-known all over town. A tour with one of their costumed guides will give you local history, in true Asheville style, with a wacky twist.
After a trip around town, head over to The Orange Peel – the venue plays host to local and regional bands, as well as comedy shows and dance nights. For the final act, French Broad Chocolates is a must. The lines will almost always be long at this “chocolate lounge” but the wait is worth it for all things decadent and dreamy.
Due to COVID-19, be sure to check national and local travel restrictions, including state travel advisories, and individual attractions before booking and visiting.
Lead image: Sean Pavone/Shutterstock