Goodnight Vienna… good morning Venice! Joanna Czechowska takes the Nightjet from the Austrian capital to the glorious city on the water to celebrate the great European Railway Renaissance
Back in the mid-1990s, I took the night train from Atlanta, Georgia in the USA to Washington DC with a friend. We didn’t take the plane as my friend was terrified of flying. It wasn’t a great experience. In those days, only eccentrics and phobics took the down-at-heel, shabby night train – but times have changed. Night train travel, especially in Europe, is back!
It’s 9:30pm and my husband and I are standing on the platform at Hauptbahnhof in central Vienna waiting for our train. It’s a little late arriving but they helpfully tell you which part of the platform corresponds with your carriage number.
We are travelling to Venice Santa Lucia with huge heavy rucksacks, but we don’t need to worry about weight limits, we didn’t have to travel hours out of the city to get our train and there are no lengthy checks or controls. Plus travelling at night means you save time.
Back on track in Europe
Austrian railways ÖBB are at the forefront of European night train travel with their new Nightjets linking Austria with Germany, Italy, the Netherlands, Switzerland and Belgium. France is due to be added to the list at the end of 2021. In 2016, ÖBB made the bold decision to buy all 42 carriages and most of the City Night Line routes when German railways were selling them off. It was a good call. Austria is now one of the few countries running night trains beyond their borders.
Travelling by train is green. ÖBB estimate their Vienna-Brussels night train emits 10 times less CO2 than flying the same route. And as almost all European trains lines are electrified, the use of green renewable electricity makes it a better choice than the car.
The Vienna to Venice route will take us across the Alps on a track built between 1848 and 1854. The so-called Semmering railway crosses some of the most difficult terrain in the world. It was a route often taken by Austrian Emperor Franz Josef and his beautiful wife Sissi in the 19th century when they travelled to different parts of their empire.
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Cosy compartments
With minimum fuss, we are on board and the steward shows us our compartment (apparently cabins are only for ships!). We are really excited. A night train to Venice conjures up images of a Hitchcock or Agatha Christie film – hopefully with just the romance and not the murders.
We are travelling in a Sleeping Car which is a private space complete with two bunk beds, an additional bed above the door, a ladder, small seat and a separate bathroom with toilet, basin and shower. If travelling alone, it’s possible to purchase a Sleeping Car for one but you can save money by opting to share with a stranger of the same sex.
A cheaper option is the Couchette with four or six bunks which is good for a large group or can be shared with others. Women can book female-only Couchettes. The cheapest option is the ordinary seat which leans back, but is not very comfortable for sleeping. There is a shower at the end of the train for public use.
The numbering system can be confusing (our tickets said 42 and 46) which sounds like we were not together but it means we were in compartment 4 and 2 refers to the lower bunk, and 6 to the upper bunk. We stow our luggage in the space above the beds and enjoy our complimentary small bottles of Champagne as the train pulls out of Vienna. There are also goody bags containing earplugs, slippers and water. The steward checks our Covid tests and brings us hot drinks and snacks. There is no restaurant car on the Nightjets, so do have dinner before you leave.
A night on the rails
During the journey, we stop at 11 different stations but a message over the tannoy says there will be no more announcements so everyone can sleep. We have a wash using the fluffy white bathroom towels and soap and shower gel provided, brush our teeth and get into bed. The power socket near the door means we can charge our phones overnight.
I try to read for a while, but the nightlight is not very bright so after a few minutes decide to go to sleep. I have a good night. The bed is comfortable, the duvet soft and the air conditioning keeps the room cool. Noise is kept to a minimum but I am aware a few times during the night when the train stops at stations. However, the gentle rocking lulls me to sleep beautifully.
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We wake at around 7.30 am and open the window blind. We were passing through small stations in Italy and due to arrive in Venice Santa Lucia at 8.34. In the bathroom, you have to press a button to get the shower water flowing. It’s compact but possible to have a good wash. The steward arrives with breakfast which is included in the price. There is a croissant, bread and butter with jam and Nutella, fruit juice, water and a moist wipe. He also brings a hot drink, a choice of tea or coffee. We then stand in the corridor while the steward transforms the beds back into three seats so we could comfortably sit down until our arrival in Venice. Once there, we are already in the heart of the city, ready to take the boat to our apartment.
The whole journey takes about 11 hours but in the comfort of your bed, time flies. Of course, you miss all the scenery at night and if that’s a concern it’s also possible to take a day train. That takes about seven hours and you get the benefit of the magnificent Alpine views. But a night train has a special romance all of its own.
More information
Check out the ÖBB website at www.nightjet.en
We paid £235 (€275) one way for two people including insurance for a Sleeping Car on the Nightjet from Vienna to Venice
A regular seat costs around £25 (€29). A Couchette, around £42 (€49).
For £10 ( €12) you can take your bike on the Nightjet on some routes. And if you can’t bear to leave your dog behind, they can come too for £25 (€29) in private compartments.