Delve beyond Antibes’ ultra-glamorous reputation to discover the rich history, regional flavours and astounding beauty of this Cote d'Azure gem
With its pretty Provençal scenes, dreamy beaches, artistic past and celebrity clientele (it's a date destination for the likes of Beyoncé and Jay-Z), Antibes is an absolute highlight of any trip to the south of France. It lies on the jewel-encrusted stretch of coast between Cannes and Nice and is one of the most gorgeous towns on the Côte d'Azur.
The gorgeous, cobbled streets of Antibes old town are festooned with flowers and throng with local markets, cafés, bistros, bars and art galleries. Impressive 16th-century ramparts enclose the labyrinthine old town and its superyacht-bedecked Port Vauban is one of the largest marinas in Europe. Spend any time here and you'll see Antibes has as much culture and history to offer as it does famous guests and stories. But, if you really need more persuasion, here are six more reasons to visit…
1. For pretty Provençal markets
Provençal markets are next level for gourmands. There are two types of markets in Antibes that are both commonly found elsewhere on the French Riviera: farmers’ markets and Provençal markets. Petite farmers’ markets are where you’ll find seasonal local fruits and vegetables in abundance, plus a quality butcher, fishmonger and artisan baker, of course. The Provençal market, held in the covered marketplace in Antibes, is a hub of the town and is open every day during the summer. There’s a dizzying array of local items on sale, from sun-ripened produce and fragrant perfumes to rainbow-bright flowers – welcome to wonderland. Don’t forget to take a pitstop at one of the copious chic French cafés dotted around the marketplace for an Amélie-style coffee and crème brûlée moment.
2. For an art and history lesson
The Picasso Museum dominates the skyline of Antibes. It's housed in Château Grimaldi, which Picasso lived in for a period in 1946. On his departure, he donated much of the artwork he produced there to the town. During the time he was there he created 23 paintings and 44 drawings. Opened in 1966, it was the first museum dedicated to Picasso and is a huge cultural draw for Antibes. After visiting the museum, be sure to join the Picasso walking trail that hugs the deep blue ocean.
The star-shaped citadel that is Forte Carré can be found at the southern tip of Cap d’Antibes, a mere 85 feet (26m) above sea level. It was built in the 16th century by King Henry II of France, originally for defensive purposes but it has since served as a military barracks and training centre. The 360° views are sublime: on a clear day you can see the southern Alps, Nice, Monaco and the Italian coastline. During the French Revolution, Napoleon Bonaparte was imprisoned here for a few days and Fort Carré was featured in the 1983 Bond film Never Say Never Again.
3. For celebrity-studded beach life
The French Riviera is known for its high-glamour beaches favoured by many celebrities and there are plenty of sandy sweeps ringed by superyachts in Antibes too. One of the most popular is Salis beach, just south of the old town with its talcum-powder sand. The beach has ravishing views of the ramparts of the old town, the Alps and the Garoupe lighthouse standing proud on the hill behind the beach – it’s just spectacular.
Grand Beach is on the other side of the cape but this long public beach has incredible views of the Lérins Islands instead. It’s perfect for renting catamarans, kiteboards, kayaks and jet skis. Or don your Breton stripes and go all-out at the glitzy beach clubs that dot this stretch of the coast. F. Scott Fitzgerald wrote The Great Gatsby after staying nearby in Saint Raphaël, which also has some glam sands.
4. For botanical gardens and forest trails
The diverse Thuret Botanical Gardens were founded way back in 1857 by botanist Gustav Thuret. The gardens were his labour of love, originally set up to study the acclimatisation of exotic plants and trees. Now the gardens and their 2,5000 species are freely open to the public. It's a beautifully serene place, right in the centre of Cap d’Antibes, outside the old town.
Coastal walks from Antibes are a must while you're on the sensational French Riviera coastline. Head out of the old town and hit the dusty trails, winding their way past sugary sands to the most idyllic viewpoints on the coast. There is a multitude of marked walks around Antibes itself. A standout has to be the Picasso walking trail, where visitors can follow in the artist’s footsteps to see the rocky outcrops and azure coves that he painted. It’s a just over three-mile (5km) walk of breathtaking rugged coastal scenery. As Picasso said: “If you want to see the Picassos from Antibes, you have to see them in Antibes.”
5. For Michelin-starred restaurants and authentic French bistros
Cannes and Antibes share 13 Michelin stars between them. Restaurant La Passagère has a Michelin star and one of the best terraces on the riviera. Inside it’s full of old-world Art Deco charm – ornate frescoes cover the walls while gilded pillars and decadent chandeliers complete this step-back-in-time scene.
If you don’t have a Michelin budget, fear not, there are plenty of local bistros serving up the French classics. Chez Jules, slap-bang in the old town, is a restaurant, café, grocery and French bistro all rolled into one. Pam Pam Bar at the end of Juan Les Pins beach is a Brazilian bar that has been around since 1927 – swing by for a sundowner after a day spent exploring Antibes.
6. For spectacular Art Deco stays
If you have the cash to splash, the sky's the limit on the French Riviera. Live your best life at Cap d’Antibes Beach Hotel, nestled between Port Gallice and Port du Croûton with stellar vistas of the Lérins Islands and Estrel mountains. Opened as a hotel in 1889, this is a super-stylish, utterly luxurious stay. Expect nothing but good-looking interiors, absolute pampering and excellent French hospitality here: the hotel is frequented by celebrities and politicians. Its Michelin-starred restaurant Les Pêcheurs is described in the Michelin Guide as “a little corner of paradise and quintessentially Côte d'Azur.”
The Hôtel Belles Rives is an Art Deco boutique hotel masterpiece, simply put. F. Scott Fitzgerald stayed here with his wife Zelda in its previous incarnation as Villa Saint-Louis. It was transformed into Hôtel Belles Rives in 1929 and has been in the same family ever since. The colourful, stained-glass windows, mosaic floors and Art Deco lamps and fittings give this hotel the feel of a pristine mansion rather than a hotel. The Hermès wallpaper in the rooms and green marble bathrooms all add to the aesthetic.
Based in the buzzy town of Juan-les-Pins, Hotel Le Sud ticks all the boxes for an elegant yet great-value hotel. This artistic haven, just moments from the beach, gets top marks for its French Riviera nostalgia, striking interior design and sheer simplicity. The price point is hard to beat too, starting from £70 a room. Be quick though: the 29 rooms get snapped up quickly.
Getting there
British Airways, Air France, and Ryanair all have flights from the UK to Marseilles, while Jet2 flies to Nice (the closest airport) from Manchester. For more information contact the Antibes tourist information centre.
Main image: Rostislav Glinsky/Alamy Stock Photo