Understated but elegant, confident and incredibly aesthetically pleasing, Geneva offers a diverse collection of attractions for a weekend break in the slow lane.
Right at the crossroads of Italy, France and Germany, Switzerland, and Geneva in particular, has been the beating heart of Europe for centuries. It became a refuge for religious, political and social outcasts of Europe under Jean Calvin in the 1600s and, as one of the centres for the United Nations, it has grown into the multicultural, multinational city we know today. Through time, its diverse residents have all come here seeking peace, understanding and compassion – it's an ethos the city still embodies today.
You could argue that Geneva doesn't have one focal point. Instead, it's all about blink-and-you'll-miss-it cobbled side streets, pleasant squares basking in gentle sunshine and romantic wisteria-draped buildings. It's rather small – there are only around 200,000 residents in Geneva, over a half of whom are foreigners – which makes the city very walkable and well-suited to a short break.
Here's how to spend a leisurely weekend in Geneva.
Friday
Check-in at: Hôtel Bristol Geneva. Sitting pretty near the Pont du Mont-Blanc and Mont-Blanc pier, this Art Deco-inspired hotel offers comfortable and generously sized rooms, beautiful bathrooms with walk-in rainfall showers and great breakfast served in the on-site restaurant that's also open for lunch and dinner.
Bring swimwear to melt away the day at the hotel's complimentary wellness centre, where a large Jacuzzi, sauna and hammam await. Treatments are also available to book.
Taste your way around the city with: Choco Pass. Get your bearings by hitting the city's streets and let chocolate be your reward for getting your daily steps in. Launched this year, the pass allows visitors to discover seven chocolatiers in the city and learn all about their signature treats, from truffles and pralines to pavés de Geneve (or cobblestones of Geneva) – the city's famous delicate chocolate cubes, dusted in cocoa powder. You'll leave each shop with a tasting bag, having discovered a little about the history of chocolate making in Geneva.
Have dinner and drinks at: Le Blanc Valet. Tucked away on a small street near the lake's southern shore, this cosy restaurant and its lively atmosphere will make you feel like a local. There's an excellent wine menu with plenty of Swiss tipples too, while the small-plates food menu takes local and seasonal ingredients – like wild garlic, perch from the lake or thin pork cuts from the loin – and pairs them with global techniques. This fusion of local and international flavours is a great metaphor for Geneva itself.
READ MORE: On Geneva's chocolate trail
Saturday
Discover: Geneva's Old Town. Once an independent stronghold, the city of Geneva was at the heart of the Reformation movement during the 16th and 17th centuries. Attracting a diverse population from across Europe (and beyond) thanks to the city's separation from the Catholic Church, a variety of skills, ideas and knowledge flooded into Geneva. Make use of your City Pass (available for 24, 48 or 72 hours) and join a guided tour of the Old Town to learn more about the city's history.
Unmissable Old Town attractions include Maison Tavel, Geneva's oldest private residence that houses a fascinating scale model of Geneva in the mid-1800s, and St Pierre Cathedral. The austere cathedral combines a mixture of architectural styles, with the latest addition being its Neoclassical façade from the 18th century. The City Pass includes a visit up both towers, which offer excellent views of the city, Lake Geneva and the mountains beyond.
Visit: Jardin Anglais. Stroll through this leafy green park from the 1800s and don't miss a photo opportunity in front of the city's famous Horloge Fleurie, or Flower Clock. A unique floral sculpture, created with around 12,000 seasonal plants and flowers, it celebrates the city's watchmaking history. Then, hop aboard the solar-powered mini-train, running along the left shore of Lake Geneva and back.
Stop to admire the Jet d'Eau – perhaps the city's most famous landmark. Installed in 1886 to relieve pressure in the city's water system, the jet shoots up at a speed of 124 miles per hour (200km/h) and its power is truly a sight to behold. Note that the jet is turned off during poor weather.
Stop for lunch at: Cottage Café. At its best in the sunshine, this lovely café sits next to the ostentatious Brunswick Monument and is excellent for a light lunch. There's a great selection of tapas and mezze-style dishes as well as tasty salads and daily meat, fish and pasta dishes.
Take to the water: Also included in the City Pass, the CGN one-hour cruise is perfect for seeing Geneva from a different angle. Sailing from Quai du Mont-Blanc and Quai du Jardin Anglais, the boat trip takes in views of the Old Town, the famous villas of Cologny and the Palais des Nations (the home of the United Nations). During clear weather, you'll also have first-class views of Mont Blanc. Download the free audio guide to help you spot the key sights.
Build you own watch at: Initium. Immerse yourself in the world of Swiss watchmaking and learn all about its history in Geneva. Uncover the mysteries of a mechanical movement during a three-hour course or sign up for a full-day workshop and come out with your very own Swiss watch that you've assembled yourself. It's a unique and highly engaging experience that's guaranteed to leave you with a newfound appreciation for watches and the art of watchmaking.
Have dinner at: Les Armures. An absolute must-visit, this is the city's oldest restaurant, serving up typical Swiss cuisine. Some of its features, including the water-painted ceiling scrolls and wrought-iron gates, date back to the 17th century.
The menu is jam-packed with goodies, from Swiss onion soup to sliced veal with potato rösti, but what you really want to order is the fondue. An indulgent, boozy and incredibly moreish affair, it's made moitié-moitié (half vacherin, half Gruyère cheese) and is served with bread, cornichons and pickled onions. We recommend ordering a Swiss cold cuts selection to go with it too.
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Sunday
Enjoy brunch at: La Potinière. Conveniently located in Jardin Anglais, La Potinière's Sunday brunch offers a delectable selection of sweet and savoury dishes, seafood, cold meats, fruit and desserts. Take a seat in the rotunda and enjoy views of the lake or head out in the terrace in sunny weather.
Walk around: the international district of Geneva. Famous for its neutrality, Switzerland is home to many international organisations, most of which (more than 200 to be precise) are located in Geneva and are concentrated in one area on the northern shore of the lake.
Stop to admire the Palais des Nations, the home of the United Nations, marvel at the Broken Chair, a sculpture promoting peace, and cross the road to the exquisite Botanical Gardens and Conservatory with one of the world's largest garden herbariums.
Pop inside: one of the city's excellent museums. From capturing the history of humanitarian action at the International Red Cross and Red Crescent Museum to some of the world's most prestigious and extraordinary watches at the Patek Philippe Museum, there's something for everyone in Geneva.
Those into art will appreciate the sleek space that is MAMCO, an internationally renowned museum for contemporary art, while families will find lots of joy at the Muséum d'histoire naturelle, the country's largest natural history museum. All are free to visit with City Pass.
Extend your stay
If you have more than just the weekend to spare, there are plenty of opportunities to explore beyond Geneva. Public transport in Geneva is free of charge with your hotel stay and trains are extremely affordable. CERN, the European Organization for Nuclear Research, offers free public tours six days a week while CERN's Globe of Science and Innovation is free to visit too.
Mont Salève, standing proud at an altitude of over 3,600 feet (1,110m), opens up views of Geneva and beyond from its peak. Perfect for outdoorsy types, there are opportunities to go paragliding, climbing, mountain biking and hiking or even cross-country skiing in winter. Note that the cable car is closed for renovation works until 2023.
Further afield, your Geneva City Pass offers discounted tours to Glacier 3000, Chamonix and Mont Blanc.
More information on Geneva Tourism and Choco Pass. Flights from London to Geneva starting from £46 return, with direct flights available with EasyJet, British Airways and SWISS.
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Lead image: Samuel Borges Photography/Shutterstock