Dive into buzzy new neighbourhoods, Indigenous art and a punch-packing food scene on a long weekend in the Queensland capital of Brisbane.
Ironically dubbed ‘Brisvegas’ in the 1990s for its lack of bright lights and city sights, Brisbane has struggled to shake off this teasing nickname. But when you set your eyes on the cosmopolitan city today, it’s hard to imagine why.
The capital of Queensland has gone through enormous regeneration, particularly along the riverfront. Highrises have emerged between heritage buildings while new neighbourhoods – known as precincts – have been forged in previously empty quarters.
Now is arguably the most exciting time to visit. New hotels, restaurants and bars have sprung up since the pandemic and more are on the way in anticipation of the Olympics in 2032. So don’t just use it as a gateway to the Great Barrier Reef – here’s how to spend 48 hours in Brisbane.
Friday
Check in at: Crystalbrook Vincent. Under a bridge isn’t the most obvious place to find a five-star hotel, but it totally works for this 166-room property, which originally opened in 2019. It’s had an arty upgrade since reopening under the Crystalbrook brand; prints by portraitist Vincent Fantauzzo line its corridors and murals by local artists add a pop of colour in unexpected corners. There’s also a Riviera-chic rooftop bar with an infinity pool that’s the place to be seen after 6pm.
Choose between river-view rooms offering a gorgeous vista of Story Bridge and the parklands of Kangaroo Point beyond, or the much quieter cliff-view rooms that look out to a lush living wall – go for the latter if you’re not a night owl as the neighbourhood can get noisy.
Enjoy dinner and drinks in: Howard Smith Wharves. Stroll out of the hotel and you’ll be overwhelmed with dining options in this buzzy new precinct. To make the most of the riverfront location, head to Greca for seriously photogenic and shareable Greek food, or opt for the Japanese izakaya-style tasting menu at Yoko nextdoor. Both have semi-open dining spaces that embrace Brisbane’s sub-tropical climate.
And if you fancy a drink after dinner, Felons Brewing Co, a microbrewery giving a subtle nod to Queensland’s history as a former penal colony, is a lively option. After the sun sets, Story Bridge overhead and the skyscrapers along the river all light up, creating a dazzling cityscape.
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Saturday
Get your shopping fix: with Spree With Me’s Style Trail. You get to explore a Brisbane precinct intimately, learn about its history and discover some cute boutiques en route on this guided tour with a difference.
There’s a detailed questionnaire to complete when you book, then a personal stylist will take you to either Paddington (for pre-loved fashion and local makers), St James (for international brands and well-known names) or Brisbane Arcade (bespoke pieces and Aussie designers) depending on your preferences. Lunch and drinks are included too, so you can really make a day of it.
Enjoy some art in: South Bank, the city’s cultural district. Queensland Art Gallery | Gallery of Modern Art (QAGOMA); Queensland Museum and a handful of theatres can all be found here. And of course, you’ll want to get a selfie by the Brisbane sign.
Don’t miss a visit to Aboriginal Art Co, either. The Indigenous-led non-profit organisation curates some of the public art around Fish Lane (guided tours are available), and meeting the Indigenous artists they help to support is a highlight. There isn’t a regular schedule of events, so get in touch to see what’s on.
Go for a taste of fire: at Essa. Everything from sourdough bread and salt-baked kohlrabi to Tasmanian lamb rump and spatchcock quail are cooked, flavoured or finished over the wood fire here. The effect is measured and the natural flavours are enhanced rather than overwhelmed by the flames. Book a spot by the open kitchen if you want to watch the chefs in action.
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Dance the night away: in Fortitude Valley. As the cradle of Brisbane’s punk scene – which developed here in the 1970s before the Sex Pistols strutted their stuff in Britain – this part of town is still a hub for live music. Go to Fortitude Music Hall, The Sound Garden or The Zoo for gigs, or head to nearby bars for a more casual affair.
Sunday
See the city: by bike. Brisbane has extensive and well-marked bike trails that run along the river. An easy circuit starts from City Reach Boardwalk; follow it to Brisbane City Botanic Gardens via Bunya Walk, cross the river at Goodwill Bridge, meander through South Bank from Clem Jones Promenade, then cross back at Kurilpa Bridge to whizz through the city. You’ll see a good mix of parklands, heritage buildings and new riverfront developments like Queen’s Wharf. Borrow a set of wheels for free from Crystalbrook Vincent, or hop on a shared bike from Neuron for the ride.
Relax Aussie style: on a Kiff & Culture tour. Eating out is an integral part of life in Brisbane and if you want an insight into how the Aussies do it, this six-hour experience is a good start.
It always kicks off with a big lunch banquet somewhere, such as Asian fusion restaurants Southside or Happy Boy. Once you’re well fed, it’s onto a wine tasting at City Winery before a gin experience at Granddad Jack’s Distillery. And if you’re lucky, you’ll get to meet the makers too.
Dine out in style: at Hellenika. Perennially packed, this pool-side restaurant at posh James Street hotel The Calile is an Instagrammer’s dream. Much is made of the setting, which is stylishly decked out in moss green and cream. Naturally, the tables by the water are the most sought-after spots but the food is excellent too. You can’t go wrong with ordering a classic Greek salad, pita bread with dips and a selection of market-fresh seafood.
Extend your stay
Brisbane has plenty of options for day trips if you have a hire car. For beaches, the Gold Coast is all surf and edgy vibes while the more protected Sunshine Coast is ideal for families. Or you could head inland to the Scenic Rim region – with a reputation as Queensland’s larder, it’s definitely one to add to your list if visiting food and drink producers sounds like fun.
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For those who don’t drive, the River to Bay cruise makes a beach day effortless. Departing from the botanic gardens, the scenic cruise takes you from the heart of Brisbane to Moreton Island where you can snorkel the Tangalooma Wrecks. The ships were deliberately sunk between 1963 and 1984 by the Queensland government to create a safe place for smaller boats to anchor. Today, they’ve become a rich habitat for tropical fish – look out for turtles, moray eels and maybe even the occasional wobbegong shark.
Getting here and around
Qantas and Singapore Airlines both fly to Brisbane from London Heathrow with a stopover in Singapore. Brisbane is still small enough for most of the touristy areas to be walkable. Otherwise electric scooters from Beam offer one of the easiest and fastest ways to navigate shorter distances within the city.
Lead image: f11photo/Shutterstock