Once written off as arty Amsterdam’s ugly industrial brother, Rotterdam is finally getting noticed – and for good reason.
Filled with innovative architecture, entrepreneurial young restaurateurs and fascinating museums, Rotterdam has transformed itself into one of the Continent’s coolest spots for a city break.
Whatever the weather – and it’s prone to change – you’ll find something to do in Rotterdam. To orientate yourself, head to the Euromast’s observation deck for panoramic views or take in the city from the waterways during a river cruise. Architecture buffs will love the Van Nelle Factory, a cleverly designed UNESCO World Heritage Site and a revered industrial symbol, plus the giant mixed-used De Rotterdam building perched at the river’s edge.
From the top museums to the best dining spots, here’s how to spend a long weekend in Rotterdam.
Friday
Check into: citizen M Rotterdam. Located by Blaak Station, this 151-room design hotel has a buzzy 24-hour-bar and a quirky first-floor lobby with communal workspace. You’ll find blue and white Delft pottery, cheeky-looking gnomes dotted about the place, plus plenty of coffee-table books stacked on shelves. The guestrooms are compact but the space is cleverly maximised, with large beds pushed up against the wall-to-wall windows.
After a long day of sightseeing, kick back with your pick from the library of on-demand movies.
Grab lunch at: Markthal. Fancy a snack? Head to Rotterdam’s indoor market hall, with its arched ceilings and cluster of food stalls, and sample international dishes from Spanish tapas to Moroccan dips. A delicious array of Dutch cheeses counts among the options too.
You can also buy beer and other tipples — including jenever (a traditional Dutch spirit) and gin from nearby Schiedam — to take home or back to your hotel. Peer upwards and you’ll see one of the world’s biggest artworks, Horn of Plenty by Arno Coenen, featuring grazing cows, insects and tumbling fruit.
Admire the views at: Oude Haven. Boldly painted boats and historic ships dock at the city’s ‘Old Port’ (right next to the citizenM Rotterdam). Take in the view from the terrace of a waterfront café or pop into chic, low-lit bar Noah for an early cocktail.
Arrive at Oude Haven before 6pm and you can step inside the show-home-style museum at one of architect Piet Blom’s striking Cube Houses. Architecture lovers should also pause to view the Witte Huis, an Art Nouveau building that lays claim to being Europe’s first skyscraper.
Sip a pre-dinner drink at: Ballroom, on Witte de Withstraat – this street is always a great bet for a busy bar on a weekend evening. Hip bar and restaurant Ballroom is named after bitterballen, a popular Dutch deep-fried snack usually served with mustard. The lengthy menu of gins and accompanying tonics is a tempting reason to stop by.
Eat dinner at: Panenka. It’s a short walk to this laid-back restaurant and sports bar, which shares its name with the Czech footballer whose sublime penalty won his country a European championship. Don’t dismiss the place on account of its showing live sport – the comforting food is worth staying for. Share a charcuterie platter before tearing into the succulent spare ribs or sampling the beer-can chicken.
READ MORE: Gouda – on the Netherlands' cheese trail
Saturday
Explore: Rotterdam’s Museumpark. Packed to the brim with cultural delights, the city’s Museumpark is home to two intriguing 20th-century homes: Sonneveld House, a beautifully preserved example of Dutch Functionalism, and the Chabot Museum, which is filled with works by its namesake, artist Henk Chabot. Make time for a quick refresher at the café in Het Nieuwe Instituut (pictured below), which also hosts absorbing temporary exhibitions on design and digital culture.
The Kunsthal, on the far side of the landscaped park, has some great exhibitions too – previous displays have included celebrations of Dutch designers Viktor and Rolf and fashion photographer Peter Lindbergh.
Medieval masterpieces, such as Hieronymus Bosch’s The Pedlar, Frans Hals’ Portrait of a Man and other paintings from the Dutch Golden Age, hang in the vast Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen, while more modern works here include those by lauded Dutch artist Piet Mondriaan. There’s also some futuristic furniture by designer Gerrit Rietveld on display.
Eat lunch at: Fenix Food Factory. Cross the river, on foot over the photogenic Erasmus Bridge or by speeding across the Nieuwe Maas in a water taxi, then browse the stalls set within a former warehouse. Take a pew on the mismatched seating at the building’s centre, or on a bench overlooking the river, and feast on dishes whipped up from local produce. For a drink, try the Stielman coffee roastery or Kaapse Brouwers taproom, which hosts jazz sessions on Fridays and Sundays.
Tour: Nederlands Fotomuseum in Rotterdam's Las Palmas building. The Netherlands’ national museum for photography holds an impressive collection of near six-million images, spanning a huge range of genres. Retrospectives and contemporary works are exhibited in the subtly lit lower level and the first-floor gallery. And if you’ve a penchant for photography books, leave plenty of time for a visit to the museum shop.
Dinner at: NY Basement. Housed in the former headquarters of the Holland America shipping line, Hotel New York has a long and intriguing history, and its basement restaurant is pleasingly opulent. If you’re feeling adventurous or indecisive, order one of the ‘surprise’ menus, where the chef will choose a string of tasty courses. Alternatively the à la carte menu changes seasonally, but regularly features tenderloin steak. The cocktail list boasts specials dreamt up by the bartenders, as well as the usual classics.
Sunday
Stroll: The streets of Schiedam, a 10-minute ride via public transport from central Rotterdam. Unlike Rotterdam’s heavily bombed city centre, Schiedam survived World War II intact, and here you’ll find the world’s tallest windmills.
If you’re prepared for another dose of art, you could pore over the contemporary works displayed in the Stedelijk Museum Schiedam. Or if your legs are feeling heavy, buy a ticket for one of the hour-long boat tours of Schiedam’s canal network.
Visit: Schiedam was once the base for almost 400 distilleries. Jenever, often described as Dutch gin, was produced in many of them, and continues to be made at the Nolet Distillery, which can be toured on weekdays.
The National Jenever Museum Schiedam opens from 11am and tells the story of the spirit’s production. Tastings are offered in the museum too.
For more information about Rotterdam, head to https://en.rotterdam.info.